Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ryan Lawson, 1999
Page Views: 9,653 total · 61/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


163 Opinions

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Description

A new classic!!! Heresy starts on a flake just left of the Shoes of the Fisherman. Move up and heelhook your way left on huge huecos. Some stick clip first bolt. Move up steep powerful moves on good edges. The crux comes just before the anchors. There are several ways to finish this pumpy climb but any way that you finish you'll have a crowd clapping when your done.

Protection

Quickdraws
mark d  
everybody likes it. Mar 11, 2006
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
  5.11c
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
  5.11c
nobody clapped when I was done... Mar 23, 2006
bryans
 
bryans  
 
It's hard to call any route under 30 feet a classic. But this climb does leave you wanting more - and wishing there were more steep yet crimpy sub-5-12 climbs like it at Smith. Aug 11, 2006
Bickle
  5.11a/b
Bickle  
  5.11a/b
the route should be called frat house May 25, 2009
ferrells  
 
I agree that this is a great route. It's odd that some have such a negative view of it.
The character of it is certainly different from most of Smith, but I hardly think of this as a reason to deride it. I don't know about the rest of you guys (and gals), but I like it that there's a moderate route in the main area that is clean, fun, and bouldery, and doesn't take thirty minutes for two people to do it. Dec 10, 2009
If one claims not to like it he or she is a liar. Who doesn't enjoy a nice flat area to chill on and a jungle gym to dick around on? Mar 7, 2011
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
 
Derrick Peppers   Terrebonne, OR
 
We did this route with snow falling and blood dripping from a failed Dino straight up the last section. The technical finish works better... Trust me. Apr 8, 2011
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
IF you can do it, the dyno is the way to go by far. Adds a GREAT ending without the holds to the left. Set the feet WAY higher than you think you need to, and JUMP!! Just make sure to really stare at that hold, or youre gonna miss! Good luck. Feb 15, 2012
T Rundle
Belltown
T Rundle   Belltown
Nice change from everything else at Smith Feb 12, 2013
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
 
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
 
I once saw a guy trying to stick clip the chains on this. Feb 24, 2014
Maxm
 
Maxm  
 
Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball. Aug 18, 2014
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
"Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball."

Your counting is wrong- but only by two V grades. Aug 19, 2014
Finn Foster
  5.11b/c
Finn Foster  
  5.11b/c
This route is the silliest route in this area. It's definitely a classic, but I wish there was more going up. It'll makes you feel good when you climb this as your first 11b/c. Oct 5, 2015
PERMADRAW ANCHOR NEEDS REPLACEMENT/REPAIR

Gate failed on one of the permadraws / fixed anchor hardware yesterday when I was lowering partner yesterday, and the rope popped out of 1 of the 2 permadraws. Earlier the gate looked partly open and seemed to be damaged. I should have hung my own quickdraws at the anchor instead. Mar 20, 2016
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.11c
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.11c
Short and sweet. Fun bouldery movement up to a tricky finish. As mentioned in previous comments, when I was there in March 17, one of the anchor biners is still in poor condition. The gate doesn't necessarily stay closed. Jul 28, 2017
Seanald
  5.11b
Seanald  
  5.11b
youtube.com/watch?v=kCN2hFo…

Hilarious video of what not to do on this climb (he was fine, apparently). Oct 3, 2017
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Nowhere close to hilarious. You must mean "how not to belay for this climb." Shameful. Belay privledges should be revoked. Oct 3, 2017
another Chad
5.11c
another Chad  
5.11c
bheller, what are you taking about? The climber fell with an arm-load of rope out. That the belayer was able to slow the climber's fall at all is impressive given the circumstances.

Chad Oct 3, 2017
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
It's impressive he was able to say "fuck" four times before he hit the ground! Oct 3, 2017
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I'm going to leave my above comment as is. When I first watched this video it was on my phone and with the combination of the low quality video and the small frame I didn't notice the climber's body was concealing that he had an armful of slack out. I carefully watched on a larger screen more closely this time and I still think it was both sloppy climbing and a sloppy belay at the critical moment. I'm glad the climber wasn't broken- he did hit the ground. Its definitely not "hilarious" for me to watch; I've as been dropped by improper/inexcusable belays and as a result have suffered serious broken bones in both extremities due to ground falls more than once:( I suppose my intended message is: the belayer's responsibility to the climber requires a level of seriousness far greater than most seem to currently be giving it. Oct 3, 2017
Seanald
  5.11b
Seanald  
  5.11b
Sorry to have ruffled your feathers, bheller. It's only 'hilarious' to me in a horrifying Americas-funniest-home-videos-of-dude-getting-a-tree-to-the-crotch-while-skiing-but-he-is-actually-okay sense. You're right that I shouldn't laugh, but both the video and the bro attracting nature of the climb itself are just so ridiculous that I couldn't help it. Glad he was fine of course and I hope they all learned a valuable lesson (don't go for that low clip with armloads of slack and a daydreaming belayer when you're rapidly losing grip on a massive jug). Oct 5, 2017
John Sullivan
Eugene, OR
 
John Sullivan   Eugene, OR
 
A highball V3 with bolts. Very fun! Dec 4, 2017