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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ryan Lawson, 1999
Page Views: 8,692 total, 60/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A new classic!!! Heresy starts on a flake just left of the Shoes of the Fisherman. Move up and heelhook your way left on huge huecos. Some stick clip first bolt. Move up steep powerful moves on good edges. The crux comes just before the anchors. There are several ways to finish this pumpy climb but any way that you finish you'll have a crowd clapping when your done.

Protection

Quickdraws
John Sullivan
Eugene, OR
 
John Sullivan   Eugene, OR
 
A highball V3 with bolts. Very fun! Dec 4, 2017
Seanald
  5.11b
Seanald  
  5.11b
Sorry to have ruffled your feathers, bheller. It's only 'hilarious' to me in a horrifying Americas-funniest-home-videos-of-dude-getting-a-tree-to-the-crotch-while-skiing-but-he-is-actually-okay sense. You're right that I shouldn't laugh, but both the video and the bro attracting nature of the climb itself are just so ridiculous that I couldn't help it. Glad he was fine of course and I hope they all learned a valuable lesson (don't go for that low clip with armloads of slack and a daydreaming belayer when you're rapidly losing grip on a massive jug). Oct 5, 2017
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
I'm going to leave my above comment as is. When I first watched this video it was on my phone and with the combination of the low quality video and the small frame I didn't notice the climber's body was concealing that he had an armful of slack out. I carefully watched on a larger screen more closely this time and I still think it was both sloppy climbing and a sloppy belay at the critical moment. I'm glad the climber wasn't broken- he did hit the ground. Its definitely not "hilarious" for me to watch; I've as been dropped by improper/inexcusable belays and as a result have suffered serious broken bones in both extremities due to ground falls more than once:( I suppose my intended message is: the belayer's responsibility to the climber requires a level of seriousness far greater than most seem to currently be giving it. Oct 3, 2017
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
It's impressive he was able to say "fuck" four times before he hit the ground! Oct 3, 2017
another Chad
5.11c
another Chad  
5.11c
bheller, what are you taking about? The climber fell with an arm-load of rope out. That the belayer was able to slow the climber's fall at all is impressive given the circumstances.

Chad Oct 3, 2017
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Nowhere close to hilarious. You must mean "how not to belay for this climb." Shameful. Belay privledges should be revoked. Oct 3, 2017
Seanald
  5.11b
Seanald  
  5.11b
youtube.com/watch?v=kCN2hFo…

Hilarious video of what not to do on this climb (he was fine, apparently). Oct 3, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.11c
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.11c
Short and sweet. Fun bouldery movement up to a tricky finish. As mentioned in previous comments, when I was there in March 17, one of the anchor biners is still in poor condition. The gate doesn't necessarily stay closed. Jul 28, 2017
PERMADRAW ANCHOR NEEDS REPLACEMENT/REPAIR

Gate failed on one of the permadraws / fixed anchor hardware yesterday when I was lowering partner yesterday, and the rope popped out of 1 of the 2 permadraws. Earlier the gate looked partly open and seemed to be damaged. I should have hung my own quickdraws at the anchor instead. Mar 20, 2016
Finn Foster
  5.11b/c
Finn Foster  
  5.11b/c
This route is the silliest route in this area. It's definitely a classic, but I wish there was more going up. It'll makes you feel good when you climb this as your first 11b/c. Oct 5, 2015
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
"Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball."

Your counting is wrong- but only by two V grades. Aug 19, 2014
Maxm
 
Maxm  
 
Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball. Aug 18, 2014
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
 
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
 
I once saw a guy trying to stick clip the chains on this. Feb 24, 2014
T Rundle
Belltown
T Rundle   Belltown
Nice change from everything else at Smith Feb 12, 2013
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
IF you can do it, the dyno is the way to go by far. Adds a GREAT ending without the holds to the left. Set the feet WAY higher than you think you need to, and JUMP!! Just make sure to really stare at that hold, or youre gonna miss! Good luck. Feb 15, 2012
Derrick Peppers
everywhere
 
Derrick Peppers   everywhere
 
We did this route with snow falling and blood dripping from a failed Dino straight up the last section. The technical finish works better... Trust me. Apr 8, 2011
If one claims not to like it he or she is a liar. Who doesn't enjoy a nice flat area to chill on and a jungle gym to dick around on? Mar 7, 2011
ferrells  
 
I agree that this is a great route. It's odd that some have such a negative view of it.
The character of it is certainly different from most of Smith, but I hardly think of this as a reason to deride it. I don't know about the rest of you guys (and gals), but I like it that there's a moderate route in the main area that is clean, fun, and bouldery, and doesn't take thirty minutes for two people to do it. Dec 10, 2009
Bickle
  5.11a/b
Bickle  
  5.11a/b
the route should be called frat house May 25, 2009
bryans
 
bryans  
 
It's hard to call any route under 30 feet a classic. But this climb does leave you wanting more - and wishing there were more steep yet crimpy sub-5-12 climbs like it at Smith. Aug 11, 2006
Bryson Slothower
  5.11c
Bryson Slothower  
  5.11c
nobody clapped when I was done... Mar 23, 2006
mark d  
everybody likes it. Mar 11, 2006