Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 512 total · 3/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


91 Opinions

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Description

This route has one hard section in the middle of the route. The crux is a tricky sequence in a slight bulge just above a ledge, and a fall at this spot may land you on the ledge. Enjoyable moves here, but oh so short, then on to an easy finish.

Location

On the far left side of the Testament Slab, right of the chimney/gully, Gothic Cathedral, and just right of the crack line, Old Testament.

Protection

Bolts. Rap Anchors.

Photos

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DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
  5.10a/b
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
  5.10a/b
A fun technical sequence above the ledge leads to much easier ground. Seems soft for 10b. Jul 11, 2010
another Chad
  5.10a
another Chad  
  5.10a
With regards to the route description above; in my experience, falling off at the crux has not been at all problematic. I've belayed someone who fell at the crux and I've done the same. Both falls resulted in the leader going down the left side of the block without any contact. Smooth sailing.


Chad Apr 24, 2011
Agree this felt soft at .10b. I ended up on a sequence that felt .9+/10a. Judging by the chalked face holds right (and the lack of marks on my sequence), that's probably why the consensus is .10b.

Read backwards for beta/spoiler:
guj citsatnaf a si drawer ,etera eht fo edis tfel eht hcraeS

I felt Irreverence just right was a good deal harder, but by late morning the heat was probably enough to color my perceptions. Oct 12, 2015
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
  5.10a
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
  5.10a
The select book gives this 10a, which feels right to me. A bit of a one-move-wonder, but there is some 5.9 climbing with your bolt below your feet on the first half to keep things interesting before you get to the crux. Crux is very comfortably bolted compared to the Smith standard (one or two moves between clips at the crux). Mar 20, 2016
Rob L
  5.10a
Rob L  
  5.10a
I saw many people start the climb by immediately going left and using the retaining wall and a large boulder to get on the arete, but I went straight up the face and then traversed left. I found that opening sequence to be really fun, with some delicate footwork and one or two 10- balancey/lieback moves. Rest of the route goes as others have described. Definitely worth a go! Nov 12, 2017
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10b
5.8 climbing below crux and maybe 5.9 climbing above crux. I fell just before clipping the 5th bolt and my belayer had me tight so I just missed hitting the ledge (fell a little above it and to the left. If I had slack out I may have hit the ledge, but it tapers to the left so maybe not.) 2 bolts and one chain link at anchor. Jul 25, 2018