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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rogers, Haack, Jern 72' free Thomas, Jones 78'
Page Views: 7,384 total, 52/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

One of the greatest trad climbs at Smith and amoung the best 5.11's.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.

Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.

Location

Left of Heresy right of the Beard.

Protection

nuts and cams to 3"
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
5.11a
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
5.11a
You can link the first and second pitches easily, and safely TR them with a 70m if the belayer stands on the higher area left of the start. The second pitch goes at 10a and protects well despite being more crumbly than the first pitch. It is a fun mix of finger jams with positive face holds. Anchor is a good set of bolts with rap chains. Nov 22, 2015
MeghanK
 
MeghanK  
 
I am not one for crack climbing, but this one was really fun. Mar 23, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I was surprised by the lack of feet on the traverse, as well as how awkward the final leaning crack was. Finishing crux is probably somewhat height dependent. Plenty of options for shorter folks, but I think being taller makes this move easier. Jun 9, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Try Shoes of the Fisherman. Same grade, right next door ;) Jan 14, 2011
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
This climb is really fun! It was my first .11 trad lead... ONSIGHT!! Compared to other .11's that ive TR'd it seemed a little soft? Great climb though with super fun moves! Jan 14, 2011
The upper pitches are certainly not as classic as the first, but the whole climb makes for a pretty enjoyable outing anyway. It is a bit loose, but it's Smith, right? It's all fun climbing and you get to visit the Hobbit Hole, a neat spot, and then do some fun ridge-running back to the Cinnamon Slab anchors. Worth doing. Oct 4, 2009
Eric Brown
Corvallis, oregon
  5.11a/b
Eric Brown   Corvallis, oregon
  5.11a/b
Upper pitches are pretty loose. Nov 2, 2006
Anyone done pitch 2, looks ok? Anchor??? May 22, 2006