Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rogers, Haack, Jern 72' free Thomas, Jones 78'
Page Views: 8,722 total · 56/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Description

One of the greatest trad climbs at Smith and amoung the best 5.11's.
The upper two pitches are rarely done, only pitch 1 is described here.

Start out with some tricky stemming (1st crux)up an open corner with a thin crack then move right folowing the crack. Follow excellent holds up the crack through a hand traverse section into a changing corners section and finally finishing with a single face move (second crux) below the anchor.

Location

Left of Heresy right of the Beard.

Protection

nuts and cams to 3"

Photos

Bryson Slothower
  5.11a/b
Bryson Slothower  
  5.11a/b
Anyone done pitch 2, looks ok? Anchor??? May 22, 2006
Eric Brown
Corvallis, oregon
  5.11a/b
Eric Brown   Corvallis, oregon
  5.11a/b
Upper pitches are pretty loose. Nov 2, 2006
Chris Wright  
 
The upper pitches are certainly not as classic as the first, but the whole climb makes for a pretty enjoyable outing anyway. It is a bit loose, but it's Smith, right? It's all fun climbing and you get to visit the Hobbit Hole, a neat spot, and then do some fun ridge-running back to the Cinnamon Slab anchors. Worth doing. Oct 4, 2009
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
This climb is really fun! It was my first .11 trad lead... ONSIGHT!! Compared to other .11's that ive TR'd it seemed a little soft? Great climb though with super fun moves! Jan 14, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Try Shoes of the Fisherman. Same grade, right next door ;) Jan 14, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
I was surprised by the lack of feet on the traverse, as well as how awkward the final leaning crack was. Finishing crux is probably somewhat height dependent. Plenty of options for shorter folks, but I think being taller makes this move easier. Jun 9, 2011
MeghanK
 
MeghanK  
 
I am not one for crack climbing, but this one was really fun. Mar 23, 2015
Sam Bedell
Bend, OR
5.11a
Sam Bedell   Bend, OR
5.11a
You can link the first and second pitches easily, and safely TR them with a 70m if the belayer stands on the higher area left of the start. The second pitch goes at 10a and protects well despite being more crumbly than the first pitch. It is a fun mix of finger jams with positive face holds. Anchor is a good set of bolts with rap chains. Nov 22, 2015
Chris Wright  
 
Anchors at the top of P2 and 3 have been replaced. The P2 anchor will still allow you to combine P1 and 2 and lower to the ground with a 70, but if continuing upwards there's also now a much more comfortable anchor a few meters above. Nov 2, 2018