Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dean Fry, Larry Kemp, Feb. 1973
Page Views: 4,744 total · 31/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


183 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This right leaning crack has some awkward moves as it angles it's way up to the crux at the top finishing slot. Probably not a good route for someone just getting into leading 10a trad. Back in the 90's, a shaky climber fell at the crux, and ripped out enough of his gear to ground. Amazingly, he lived through it.

Location

Just left of Barbecue The Pope and just right of the arete.

Protection

Gear to 3". Rap anchors. Note: Rock quality is fine but gear may not hold as well due to a lot of surface irregularities inside the crack.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9+
Great route. The crack is better suited to hexes than cams... so if you have some, bring 'em. May 20, 2007
Skeates
  5.10a
Skeates  
  5.10a
I agree with the hexes over cams. The crack looks smaller than it is. Don't forget the medium hexes and take some time to put in a couple of bomber nuts before you pull up into the crux at the top (don't be tempted to use a micro-nut in the finger crack at the top - the last two people who did that and fell broke their leg and ankle respectively on a small ledge below the crux when there piece blew). A fun crack though, definitely worth doing! Sep 20, 2007
rl23455
Portland, OR
rl23455   Portland, OR
The middle section can take a lot of 3" cams. Jul 31, 2009
Shapp  
I don't understand the gear warning. Gear is ample and A1 on this pitch. Oct 28, 2009
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
if karate crack is 10a, this is an 8+. not sustained, low angle, easy pro, slammer jams, face holds galore. a tiny bit of face climbing/laybacking at the top gets you to the chains. Jun 18, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Straightforward gear... Cams to 3 BD. and nuts... If you are concerned about the gear up high, place two nuts one on top of another. Aug 16, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
The crack is unique in that it opens up inside but you shouldn't be worried about pro or getting hurt on a fall. Cams protect it well and nuts could feel more secure. I took a 30 footer off this my first time up it and it was one of the softest falls I've ever taken. Sep 17, 2012
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a
Well-protectable, but kinda-generic 5.9 hand crack, to a couple sting-in-the-tail 5.10 moves. Worth a go if you're in the area and looking to climb at the grade. Apr 17, 2017
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
  5.10a
The gear is good, but I would agree that the surface irregularities make it not as straightforward to place as on other routes. Nuts work well, and are probably your best bet for the final crux. Oct 17, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10a
I also found hexes place well in this crack. There are some good nut placements as well, especially before the flare.

I wished I had saved, or taken doubles, of thin-hands sized cams for the last 1/3 of the crack.

You can get in a yellow Mastercam in the first crack in the flare before the move to the anchor.

The new anchor placement means this route no longer shares an anchor with BBQ to the right.

Climb this route after 2pm to stay in the shade after the time change DST. Apr 30, 2018
Dom R
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Dom R   Bend, OR
  5.9+
Pretty fun and well protected, doubles in #1 and #2 cams are nice for the handcrack. There's plenty of good pro near the top and i believe the falls would be very clean out of there, idk where this ledge is people have broken their ankles on, but its all clean up there... don't be too fearful of this thing. Nov 18, 2018