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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dean Fry, Larry Kemp, Feb. 1973
Page Views: 4,156 total, 29/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This right leaning crack has some awkward moves as it angles it's way up to the crux at the top finishing slot. Probably not a good route for someone just getting into leading 10a trad. Back in the 90's, a shaky climber fell at the crux, and ripped out enough of his gear to ground. Amazingly, he lived through it.

Location

Just left of Barbecue The Pope and just right of the arete.

Protection

Gear to 3". Rap anchors. Note: Rock quality is fine but gear may not hold as well due to a lot of surface irregularities inside the crack.
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
  5.10a
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
  5.10a
The gear is good, but I would agree that the surface irregularities make it not as straightforward to place as on other routes. Nuts work well, and are probably your best bet for the final crux. Oct 17, 2017
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.10a
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.10a
Well-protectable, but kinda-generic 5.9 hand crack, to a couple sting-in-the-tail 5.10 moves. Worth a go if you're in the area and looking to climb at the grade. Apr 17, 2017
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
The crack is unique in that it opens up inside but you shouldn't be worried about pro or getting hurt on a fall. Cams protect it well and nuts could feel more secure. I took a 30 footer off this my first time up it and it was one of the softest falls I've ever taken. Sep 17, 2012
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Straightforward gear... Cams to 3 BD. and nuts... If you are concerned about the gear up high, place two nuts one on top of another. Aug 16, 2012
Phill T
 
Phill T  
 
if karate crack is 10a, this is an 8+. not sustained, low angle, easy pro, slammer jams, face holds galore. a tiny bit of face climbing/laybacking at the top gets you to the chains. Jun 18, 2012
Shapp  
I don't understand the gear warning. Gear is ample and A1 on this pitch. Oct 28, 2009
rl23455
Portland, OR
rl23455   Portland, OR
The middle section can take a lot of 3" cams. Jul 31, 2009
Skeates
  5.10a
Skeates  
  5.10a
I agree with the hexes over cams. The crack looks smaller than it is. Don't forget the medium hexes and take some time to put in a couple of bomber nuts before you pull up into the crux at the top (don't be tempted to use a micro-nut in the finger crack at the top - the last two people who did that and fell broke their leg and ankle respectively on a small ledge below the crux when there piece blew). A fun crack though, definitely worth doing! Sep 20, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9+
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9+
Great route. The crack is better suited to hexes than cams... so if you have some, bring 'em. May 20, 2007