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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: no
Page Views: 151 total, 3/month
Shared By: April Koperniak on Apr 22, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a sandy, extremely chossy, and littered with pigeon poo chimney. The climbing is pretty easy (5.7) for the first pitch, with a bit of a possible challenge at a well-protected roof about 40' up. Beware though, because all although there are myriad placements, the overall picture is one of a giant conglomeration in a gully of choss. Minimize rope drag at the beginning because the climbing turns into runout 5.6 to the "anchors" (the big yellow Smith guidebook says there are anchors) which is an old (1/4") bolt w/ a thin hanger. Unless you brought the big gear for the second pitch with you, I only saw one crack to build an anchor with the gear I had left. And yes it is still all choss.
The second pitch consists of about 20' or so of mank over a bulge with good feet and hand jams to where the reason to climb the route to begin with is located, the 35' feet of good 5.8 off-width. This is where the "R" in the rating comes in if you don't have the big bros, or can't place them because of all the undulations. The crack did widen up enough for me to get totally in between it, with great views through the other side of Smith of the Cascades. The chimeny squeezes shut to a proper 5.8 off-width again just below the top-out, at which there are about 6 pieces of sun-beat webbing slung around reasonably sized boulder. Plenty of room up there for two people to stand, though I wouldn't recommend belaying someone up there who will be jostling and jangling on the rope while squirreling their way up the OW.
Bottom line is, this is one climb that the Smith guidebook's description is lacking, though understandable since it isn't climbed often due to the poor quality of rock. Be prepared to build anchors (not something most at Smith tend to do) and wear a helmet because you and your partner will be kicking rocks and pebbles down the whole time. I'm pretty sure you could rap from the top of the second pitch, which is only maybe 60' feet long, with two 70' m, but since we rapped from the top of the first pitch with two 70's, and there was plenty of rope on the ground, I can only make an intelligent guess on that one. If you're looking for a bit of adventure climbing and want to do something different from the usual Smith sport, then this will be a few fun hours.

Location

This climb is obvious, a few bolted lines downstream from Revelations, a popular 5.9. It's in the guidebook as Gothic Cathedral (first pitch) to Last Gasp (2nd pitch)

Protection

mixed nuts and SLCDs, .5-6, bring the Big Bros if you have them. Build anchors at the top of the first pitch, and bring some webbing and rap ring(s) for the top if you don't want to trust what is up there (I reluctantly rapped off of the existing webbing but it should get replaced...)

Photos

April Koperniak
Bend, OR
 
April Koperniak   Bend, OR
 
Yes, totally agreed. Had I known there would have been that much shrapnel we'd of climbed it a different day...many apologies to all those who were below us.. Apr 24, 2013
CritConrad
Bend, OR
CritConrad   Bend, OR
For the general safety of those climbing the popular moderate routes below this climb, please save this climb for a very low-traffic weekday morning and not a busy Sunday afternoon!! or make sure you have helmets for your partner as well as everyone climbing on the ground! Apr 23, 2013