Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,278 total · 27/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 10, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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Description

Technical shallow dihedral stemming moves lead to a crux above on a steep face. This route is not in the 1992 Watts guide.

Location

The next route left of Blasphemy and about 50 feet right of the Combination Blocks.

Protection

Very well protected with huge close-together bolts.
Rap anchors.

Photos

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11d
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.11d
Lots of bolts on this one, so if you're sick of the spacing on other routes this will feel great.

Fun bouldery movement and well protected. I just wish it were longer. Aug 18, 2007
Blake Allen Green  
  5.11d
Fun route, but no way it's the same grade as Sunshine Dihedral. If this is 11d, then Sunshine is definitely 12a.

Also an easier redpoint or onsight if you start with bolt 3 clipped. That way, you can actually climb something like 12 feet before you have to start clipping every two moves. Nov 29, 2012
Franck Vee
  5.12a
Franck Vee  
  5.12a
The guidebook says 12a, so I'll consider that my first 12a redpoint ;)

Interesting climb and a good candidate if you're trying to get into 12a (hard 11d). It starts really though and gradually eases out. Fun positioning, you really have to think it through and climb in 3D. Gym bolted by any standard. It's not really pumpy - you can steam your way into rests in a couple place by alternating arms for a bit on decent stances. Not a no-hands but good enough.

I recommand having your belayer up on the ledge, not down below. At first we tried with the belayer below the ledge, but then the rope is at an angle and you'll have a hard time getting your right foot above it in the hard layback/steming first part once the 1st bolt is clipped.

Clips are all easy to do with decent stances. Just go for it! You can always get your draws back if you don't manage by climbing blasphemy (11a). Jul 15, 2017
Sam Carter
Spokane, WA
  5.12a
Sam Carter   Spokane, WA
  5.12a
This thing is pretty sustained 12-. Without a doubt worthy of the 12a rating in newest guidebook Feb 19, 2018