Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: A. Watts, '84
Page Views: 2,118 total · 14/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jun 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

This classic route shares the first bolt with Dreamin' before traversing left and merging with Rude Boys just before the sparsely protected slab.

The technical crux comes immediately after the second bolt and a powerful lockoff gains the slab above the fourth bolt. Sustained face climbing on welded tuff past two more bolts and a fixed stopper leads to the anchor.

The 12b rating seemed somewhat soft relative to other 12b's I have climbed at Smith.

Location

Prophet Wall

Protection

Quick Draws for six bolts and a fixed stopper.

Photos

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Fred Gomez  
 
I was really perplexed when I first looked at this route. The route traverses between the first and second bolt but all of the chalk is well above the second bolt. Don't let this keep you from doing the route. The traverse moves are pretty easy and you'll probably end up clipping the second draw at left ankle height. Bolt placement seems a little odd, but it is nothing to fret about. Nov 23, 2008
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This seems like a great candidate for being rebolted. Does anybody object to the second bolt getting moved to make it less jingus/more fun? Sep 27, 2015
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Do it;) Sep 27, 2015
Alan watts  
 
If you are forced to clip the second bolt at your ankle, you aren't doing Boy Prophet. The original route traverses on unchalked holds clipping the second bolt at head height. The 5.12a version that people are doing today (with the ankle clip of the second bolt) is called False Prophet. Aug 12, 2016