Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: FA - Alan Watts 1985, FFA Jean Baptiste Tribout 10/86
Page Views: 12,166 total · 74/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V6/V7) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dynamic redpoint crux (V5) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.

Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.

Location

This route is just left of Dreamin' on the Prophet wall.

Protection

Quickdraws and maybe a few shoulder-length slings or double-draws to manage the rope drag. There is a horizontal pod that takes gear between the last bolt & the anchor. A nut has been fixed in this pod for many years, but you might want to have some gear with you in case its missing.

Bolted Anchors.

Photos