Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: FA - Alan Watts 1985, FFA Jean Baptiste Tribout 10/86
Page Views: 10,965 total · 70/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V6/V7) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dynamic redpoint crux (V5) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.

Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.

Location

This route is just left of Dreamin' on the Prophet wall.

Protection

Quickdraws and maybe a few shoulder-length slings or double-draws to manage the rope drag. There is a horizontal pod that takes gear between the last bolt & the anchor. A nut has been fixed in this pod for many years, but you might want to have some gear with you in case its missing.

Bolted Anchors.

Photos

Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I spent some time climbing on, and falling off of this route. The thin technical crux of the route comes at the first bolt (V5 or 6). After that, better holds traverse right to the second crux, passing the third bolt (V4) with some lunges.

On my first attempt at the route, I did all the moves on the lower section and said to my belayer: "Yeah, I'll just run up the final slab." I proceded to get completely destroyed. I found myself fifteen feet run out, staring at the next bolt with no way to clip it. Then it started raining. After a desperation lunge to a sloper, my feet peeled and I was off...I took a 25 footer and ended up at the first bolt. The moral: do not underestimate the slab. May 12, 2006
Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
Ok, thanks much. I got the beta from Ian and I think I will be able to do it before this up-coming summer. Nov 14, 2006
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
The first onsight of Rude Boys was by Francois Lombard in 1993. Feb 28, 2013
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
I watched Chris Knuth climbed it years ago, a couple days before he did To Bolt.
He wasn't expecting to get the rose move, but after he did, he decided to keep going to the top, despite having only about one more draw for the remaining bolts. He had one old biner used to carry a toothbrush, then skipped at least one bolt. Getting to the top, he put his leg through the fixed sling there, untied, and lowered down. Aug 17, 2014
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
  5.13b R
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
  5.13b R
Rude Boys recently got retro-bolted with glue in! All the bolts are almost in the same spots excepts the 4th and maybe the 5th. They got moved to reduce rope drag but still protect the same. Feb 8, 2017
Hey Alan, I think you took some photos of me on rude boys towards the beginning of May. Any chance you could post them or send them my way? Mar 16, 2017
If the opening boulder problem is V5 then I must not have worn the right spandex. First of all if it was an isolated boulder problem, even a guidebook author with the brain cells of your average Mississippi Trump voter would give it -1 stars, decline to grade it and ban its first ascensionist from future additions. At Smith Rock, land of "oh, you'll do it fast since you're a boulderer" I'd say its about V7 depending on how much the smell of glue offends your delicate sensibilities.

For some reason gear was only fixed until the first draw on the slab. For a month or so I've had my 5 draws on the last 3 bolts and anchors, but I've now removed them. So be aware that the slab isn't fixed if you opt to get on it.

Great route. May 1, 2017
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.13b PG13
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.13b PG13
I find it kind of odd that whoever decided to rebolt this thing with glue-ins felt that it was a good idea to only do half the route. What gives? I know for sure that the first three bolts are still the old expansion bolts (all the hard climbing...). The 2nd bolt specifically gets super torqued every time you weight the rope after having clipped the 3rd.

It is also a good idea for people interested in getting on this thing to actually check all the usually fixed carabiners. It is a prime candidate for fixed steel, but since the draws are aluminum and the rope runs in a draggy way, it can create some sharp grooves which have ruined ropes in the past. Oct 17, 2017
Alan Collins
Bend, OR
  5.13b R
Alan Collins   Bend, OR
  5.13b R
Replaced the first 5 bolts with steel fixed draws. Ready for action!! Jan 7, 2018