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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side
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Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Big Bone Lick S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Burning Churches S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chemical Ali S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Clam, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Holy Road S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Island in the Sky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Littleneck S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lunatic To Love S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Modern Day Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Overnight Sensation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panic Attack S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Riot Squad, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rude Femmes S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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That 10d S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Via Dolorosa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | FA - Alan Watts 1985, FFA Jean Baptiste Tribout 10/86 |
| Page Views: | 16,422 total · 77/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Mar 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: 2023 BRIDGE CLOSURE & Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The footbridge will be closed for replacement from August 14 - September 23, 2023
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
The old bridge was built nearly 50 years ago and reconstructed about 30 years ago. The new bridge will measure 8 feet wide, about 2 feet wider than the current bridge, and better accommodate visitors and first responders during the park’s frequent rescue operations. There will be no temporary bridge, and Oregon Parks and Recreation Department discourages wading across the river due to sensitive habitat and safety concerns.
Trails that will stay open include:
Rim Rock Trail
Homestead Trail
Rope-de-Dope Trail
Canyon Trail
North Point loop
Climbing areas accessible during construction include:
North Point area (accessible from the Homestead and North Point loop trails)
Rope-de-Dope boulder (accessible from the Rope-de-Dope trail and Canyon Trail)
The Lower Gorge (Climber Access routes)
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Approach the first bolt through some easy moves between good holds. Immediately after the first bolt the technical crux (V6/V7) begins with some powerful reaches between small edges. Shake out at the second bolt if you wish, then with your photographer strategically placed, execute the photogenic "rose move." The dynamic redpoint crux (V5) awaits you at a bulge just after the third bolt. Several sequences will work through this section off the hang, but take care to find the best sequence, as the moves feel significantly harder when linking from the ground.
Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.
Once you reach the fourth bolt the hard climbing is over. Your hands are good but the lack of low feet makes it hard to rest here. The next few moves moving right to the mini dihedral are not trivial. The rest of the climb is more of a mental challenge than anything else. The finishing 5.11 slab is runout and features interesting moves between slopers, pinches and pockets. This slab is much more complex and challenging than the adjacent Dreamin' slab.
Protection
Quickdraws and maybe a few shoulder-length slings or double-draws to manage the rope drag. There is a horizontal pod that takes gear between the last bolt & the anchor. A nut has been fixed in this pod for many years, but you might want to have some gear with you in case its missing.
Bolted Anchors.
Bolted Anchors.
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