Type: Trad, Sport, 290 ft, 4 pitches
FA: 1979 Jim Anglin
Page Views: 1,711 total · 13/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Dec 3, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

I approached the route via 'Barbecue the Pope' but there are many options to gain access to the first pitch on top of the Testament Slab (at its very apex).
From here ascend a face with numerous pockets that are fun and quite juggy. Move right for four bolts and then back left and up to the anchors. The rock is fairly solid through this pitch and is the best pitch of Heathen's Highway.
For the next pitch traverse right and up into a crack. This pitch would be cool if climbed more, but is very loose and dirty (and is one reason for the pg-13 grade I gave it). On top of this crack is a small chimney that leads to an anchor on the left side of the corridor.
Pitch 4 climbs a very loose slab to the summit of the Friar and has one new bolt and a few old homemade bolts (the other reason for the pg-13).
All in all, if the route had better quality rock up higher it would be very fun and safe, but with the looseness it only deserves 2 stars.
Descend near the summit of the Friar and onto its east side. Go into the 'Hobbit Hole' and scramble out of it and over to a rappel that takes you down just opposite of the 'Go Dog Go' tower.

Location

The Christian Brothers. Climbs to the summit of the Friar.

Protection

Pitches 1 & 2 are bolted. Pitch 3 is trad. Pitch 4 is bolted.

Photos