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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 290 ft, 4 pitches
FA: 1979 Jim Anglin
Page Views: 1,304 total, 12/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Dec 3, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

I approached the route via 'Barbecue the Pope' but there are many options to gain access to the first pitch on top of the Testament Slab (at its very apex).
From here ascend a face with numerous pockets that are fun and quite juggy. Move right for four bolts and then back left and up to the anchors. The rock is fairly solid through this pitch and is the best pitch of Heathen's Highway.
For the next pitch traverse right and up into a crack. This pitch would be cool if climbed more, but is very loose and dirty (and is one reason for the pg-13 grade I gave it). On top of this crack is a small chimney that leads to an anchor on the left side of the corridor.
Pitch 4 climbs a very loose slab to the summit of the Friar and has one new bolt and a few old homemade bolts (the other reason for the pg-13).
All in all, if the route had better quality rock up higher it would be very fun and safe, but with the looseness it only deserves 2 stars.
Descend near the summit of the Friar and onto its east side. Go into the 'Hobbit Hole' and scramble out of it and over to a rappel that takes you down just opposite of the 'Go Dog Go' tower.

Location

The Christian Brothers. Climbs to the summit of the Friar.

Protection

Pitches 1 & 2 are bolted. Pitch 3 is trad. Pitch 4 is bolted.

Photos

Mia A  
Descent beta. Not sure how to get to the hobbit hole, you can do the descent we did with a 60m...we went off to the left off the center anchor at the hump down towards the west side. There is a hidden webbing rappel anchor around some chockstones past the ledge. One double rope rappel would work but its likely the rope would get stuck. Aug 30, 2015
Mia A  
Do not do this route with folks below you. Likewise don't climb below anyone up on this. The 3-4 pitch is loose! Had an unfortunate rockfall incident when up on p4.


The bolts are pretty loose on p2. Had to back up with cams. Aug 30, 2015
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Lots of bolts swinging on the zig zag pitch as of 8/9/2013 and the last one is so far out that it would be a miracle if it actually held a fall... Aug 9, 2013
benberry
5.10a PG13
benberry  
5.10a PG13
Did the whole thing yesterday. We started on Nightingales on Vacation then did the traversy pitch of Heatens. The bolt spacing felt more or less alright to me. I think in the future I would skip the traverse pitch and do Via Dolorosa instead. The 3rd pitch was a little shitty and a tiny bit loose, but still fun. The climbing felt comparable to Lion's Jaw in both difficulty and the style of movement. That said there is still some junk in the crack so you want someone comfortable with 5.8 trad on that pitch. Also avoid the grapefruit-sized knob, it's loose.

The summit view is awesome!

There were anchors with rap rings pretty much everywhere. The book recommends going to the Cinnamon Slab anchors, don't know how you would get there. It looks like you could do a small single rope rappel and then a double rope rappel back onto the front that would be climber's right of testament slab. We did two single raps to get to a ridge on the backside and then hiked to some anchors that I think were for Deep Splash. Apr 29, 2012
BSwett
Bend, Or.
BSwett   Bend, Or.
Did the Zig Zag pitch today (#2), and had a lot of fun on it. The moves are nice, and nothing came loose, but the bolts are sketchy thin, and the last one, before the anchors needs to be screwed back inÂ….
I'll bring a wrench next time I'm up there... Jan 26, 2011