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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Heins 1990
Page Views: 5,355 total, 37/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Double Trouble is the most popular route on the Combination blocks for good reason. The sharp arete up the magically stacked blocks begs to be climbed.

Begin on the face and climb up using face and arete holds. A ledge provides a rest midway up but moving back onto the route can prove difficult for some.

Rappel

Protection

7 bolts to fixed biners
Trevor Vichas
Strawberry, CA
  5.10b
Trevor Vichas   Strawberry, CA
  5.10b
Better to climb this route on a cold day, as it greasefest on the hot days. May 14, 2016
Just climbed 2/22/15. Not greasy at all! Just a really fun line. Feb 23, 2015
I guess I'm just use to slick basalt because Double Trouble didn't feel particularly greasy/dirty/sweaty to me. I mention this because it would be a bummer if someone skipped over this fun climb because of the comments here.


Chad Sep 18, 2013
I made the mistake of climbing this in 90+ degree heat. The face is in the shade, but even so this thing is so greasy that the feet on the arete were unusable. If it could be cleaned it seems like a really fun route, but I suffered up it. Jul 28, 2013
Interesting comments, and a really different route at Smith. Greasy slippery feet and nothing for the left hand, but usually a very solid right hand on the arete. There are kind of a lot of bolts for Smith, but on the other hand every clip is a bit dicey since your feet could go at any time. So frequent bolts might make sense, so you don't have too much slack out if you blow a clip...

I liked it. Jul 3, 2012
this thing is a total greasefest! Ugh! Dec 18, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.10b
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.10b
Definitely better not to stand up on top of the first block--you're just setting yourself up for a bunch of downclimbing or an awkward transition.

That said, don't be shy about weaving back and forth between the arete and face. One of my favorite routes at the grade at Smith, and a big reason is that everyone has different beta! Oct 18, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Fantastic route. The clip for the first bolt on the second block is pleasantly pumper! The moves above provided the crux for me. Balancy and delicate to be sure. I wonder if it is better not to transfer to the rest above the first block and just go for it as getting reestablished on the route is hard and seems contrived. Jul 11, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
So you're saying there are too many?! Some of the worst/most dangerous falls I've ever seen were on this route. I guess the problem is more a lack of clipping stances than a lack of bolts. Feb 16, 2010
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.10b
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.10b
I usually don't complain about bolts...but at one point I had one at my foot, one at my waist, and I was clipping a third. Still, a unique climb and pretty fun! Feb 14, 2010
David Wade  
 
Beautiful route, though the layback crux seems mild for a 10b. Two lessons learned: rack all you draws on the left side, and don't bother setting a toprope for the second, the swing is a killer. Oct 11, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge. Oct 22, 2006