Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tom Heins 1990
Page Views: 6,241 total · 39/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

207 Opinions

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Double Trouble is the most popular route on the Combination blocks for good reason. The sharp arete up the magically stacked blocks begs to be climbed.

Begin on the face and climb up using face and arete holds. A ledge provides a rest midway up but moving back onto the route can prove difficult for some.



7 bolts to fixed biners
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge. Oct 22, 2006
David Wade  
Beautiful route, though the layback crux seems mild for a 10b. Two lessons learned: rack all you draws on the left side, and don't bother setting a toprope for the second, the swing is a killer. Oct 11, 2008
Ian G.
Ian G.   PDX, OR
I usually don't complain about bolts...but at one point I had one at my foot, one at my waist, and I was clipping a third. Still, a unique climb and pretty fun! Feb 14, 2010
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
So you're saying there are too many?! Some of the worst/most dangerous falls I've ever seen were on this route. I guess the problem is more a lack of clipping stances than a lack of bolts. Feb 16, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Fantastic route. The clip for the first bolt on the second block is pleasantly pumper! The moves above provided the crux for me. Balancy and delicate to be sure. I wonder if it is better not to transfer to the rest above the first block and just go for it as getting reestablished on the route is hard and seems contrived. Jul 11, 2010
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
Definitely better not to stand up on top of the first block--you're just setting yourself up for a bunch of downclimbing or an awkward transition.

That said, don't be shy about weaving back and forth between the arete and face. One of my favorite routes at the grade at Smith, and a big reason is that everyone has different beta! Oct 18, 2011
this thing is a total greasefest! Ugh! Dec 18, 2011
Interesting comments, and a really different route at Smith. Greasy slippery feet and nothing for the left hand, but usually a very solid right hand on the arete. There are kind of a lot of bolts for Smith, but on the other hand every clip is a bit dicey since your feet could go at any time. So frequent bolts might make sense, so you don't have too much slack out if you blow a clip...

I liked it. Jul 3, 2012
I made the mistake of climbing this in 90+ degree heat. The face is in the shade, but even so this thing is so greasy that the feet on the arete were unusable. If it could be cleaned it seems like a really fun route, but I suffered up it. Jul 28, 2013
I guess I'm just use to slick basalt because Double Trouble didn't feel particularly greasy/dirty/sweaty to me. I mention this because it would be a bummer if someone skipped over this fun climb because of the comments here.

Chad Sep 18, 2013
Just climbed 2/22/15. Not greasy at all! Just a really fun line. Feb 23, 2015
Trevor Vichas
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Trevor Vichas   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Better to climb this route on a cold day, as it greasefest on the hot days. May 14, 2016
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
Really fun route but also scary. Start off on face for first bolt then move over right of arete. Stick clip not necessary but nice for safety. Most of the bolts are closely space together allowing for the ease of a good mental warm up. However, the long distance between the 3rd and 4th bolts is scary, and had me standing on the ledge spooked for awhile. On the ledge, you can’t see the 4th bolt. Fortunately, it’s an arms length right around the arete. Hold onto the arete to clip while standing on the ledge. If you do opt for this rest on the ledge, then it’s a bit scary going to 5th as well but a little less mental b/c at least you’re protected by the close 4th bolt. The arete is very useful here if you opt to depend on it. Continue using the arete as you wish with options for face holds for feet. Permadraws on top. Route is well-worn but still grippy enough. I did it on a cool day so it wasn't really greasy, but I can see how it might become slick in the heat. Oct 29, 2018