Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Jim Davis, John McDaniel, Cyndee McDaniel, 1997
Page Views: 1,335 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on May 18, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

This is a short pitch that starts from the top of the Testament Slab and follows a seam through a bulge just left of Heathen's Highway.
The route is short as has some questionable rock, as a separate route I cannot recommend it, as an extension to Nightengales or Irreverance however it is worth doing.

Location

Above the Testament Slab. Start with Revelations, Irreverance or Nightengales on Vacation and belay as high as possible or link it.

Protection

bolts

Photos

Ian G.
PDX, OR
Ian G.   PDX, OR
I haven't done this route. The name means "way of suffering" in Spanish if that means anything to you... Mar 13, 2010
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
  5.10c
A sweet route with solid rock. No actual suffering required. Nov 17, 2015
Ryan Swanson
Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg
  5.10c
Ryan Swanson   Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg
  5.10c
Although you have to climb some less than perfect rock to get to this pitch, and there is a great looking undercling/sidepull with an X on it that flexes, this was an absolutely awesome climb. This would have constant worn out lowering biners from gumbies top roping this all day long if it was on the ground. Lots of varied movement. 10c seems right for the grade. Mar 29, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10c
2nd to last bolt is probably the crux. There is a seam for your hand, but it isn’t a usable crack for hand placement, handle the bulge of the seam. The holds were small. Next couple slopey crimps don’t have much friction, going for good 3rd crimp up high need to go fast and get feet up. Getting to last bolt is easier. Last bolt to anchor is 5.3 climbing. Only bolts at top of this pitch.

If you are multi-pitching, you can link Via Dolorosa to the 3rd pitch The Holy Road 11b/c above.

Watt's Guide says you can link 1st pitch Nightingale's on Vacation with 2nd pitch Via Dolorosa and lower to the ground with a 70 meter. This is WRONG and NOT RECOMMENDED. The book doesn't seem to account for the 3-5 meters of 5.0 climbing between the first pitch and second pitch. From the ground to the anchor it is about 38-40 meters of climbing. There was tremendous rope drag. This is terrible to TR because of the rope management. Belayer stands on highest boulder below/slightly left of the bolt line, and climber gets lowered to 20 feet above the ground only getting as far as the first bolt of Blasphemy which is on a ramp ledge. Belayer is literally at the end of the rope (absolutely should have a knot in the end!) For the TR climber going up they have to skip the first 2 bolts of the Nightingale route to finagle around to even get on the route by stemming across from Blasphemy bolt to Nightingale route. Once you are at the top of Via Dolorosa the middle marker of the 70m is already at almost the 2nd bolt of Nightingale

To clean: Do not lower the rope until the midway point, stop 10 feet or more before it gets to you or else if you have a draw in the first bolt with a knot in the end of the rope the knot may get sucked into and stuck in the draw. In fact, having someone on the ground take the knot out of the rope on the first rappel is a good idea so that you don’t get the rope stuck in the gear in the first bolt. When throwing rope down or lowering it for the first rappel, throw on climber’s left. Mine lowered into the crack and the knot got stuck in it. Rappel down to the first anchor, then set up a second rappel to get to the ground. Jul 25, 2018