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Routes in Christian Brothers - East Side

Am I Evil? S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Asterisk, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Attic Antics T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Barbecue The Pope S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blasphemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Balls T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Bowling Alley T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Boy Prophet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Charlie's Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Child's Play T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Choke On This S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Culture of Fear S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dancer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deep Splash S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Stain T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Double Trouble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dreamin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Boys S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Sancho S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fright Night S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Golgotha T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Heathen's Highway T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heresy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hesitation Blues T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holy Road, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Irreverence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Shootist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lightsaber S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Indian Princess S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lunatic To Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Testament T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nightingale's on Vacation S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Old Testament T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overnight Sensation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Panic Attack S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rawhide S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Return of the Redeye S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Revelations S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ring of Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rude Boys S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Rude Femmes S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Scarface S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Self Preservation Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoes of the Fisherman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smooth Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
That 10d S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That First Step S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Toy Blocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Toys In The Attic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Via Dolorosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wartley's Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
left side of the Beard, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
right side of the Beard, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,059 total, 8/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route is down-right dangerous for the leader. With virtually no pro for the first 30 feet, any mistake will put you in the hospital or worse. However, the route is easily toproped (via Hesitation Blues), and makes an excellent jaunt on a hot day when shade is desired.

The route begins with easy climbing to a shallow crack where the first worthless #1 TCU placement is found. Another ten feet up on steadily shrinking crimps leads to a worthless RP placement, and a horizontal pocket that looks like it might take a cam, but probably won't. Next is the crux: step up high with the left foot, then rock-over onto the foot using a good sidepull in the seam. Cross your right hand over to a heavily chalked flake hold. From here you can place the first piece of gear that might arrest a fall.

From here continue with relative ease into the upper bit of Hesitation Blues and its plentiful gear placements.

Location

Begin 10 feet right of Hesitation Blues, (and 20 feet right of Ring of Fire) in the "Toy Blocks" alley.

Protection

If leading, bring at least #3, 4, 5, & 6 RPs, 0-2 TCUs, 2 x .5 Camalot and one #1, #2 Camalot. 2 Bolt chain anchor.

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