PRINT: Rock Climb Return of the Redeye, Smith Rock

Return of the Redeye

5.11b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.7 from 6 votes
FA: FFA on Lead: John Collins 2016 FFA & Prep: Alan Collins and Sam Hanslits 2016
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This route got all cleaned, bolted and figure out by both Sam Hanslits and Alan Collins. After all the prep got done, the FA got passed on to John Collins for a fathers day gift.

Start off on a powerful start leaving the ledge passing the first bolt. If the right sequence is found, it seems 5.10, but it is easy to use powerful beta here. Climb to the 3rd bolt before the the climbing begins to get hard again. From the 3rd bolt, expect sustained climbing for the grade till the last bolt is clipped. Getting to the last bolt, you can either go left (more technical) or right (more powerful but less technical). I though going left seems more locker and probably easier, but I bolted it so you can go either way.

Enjoy!!

Location

Above Jete (5.8), Dancer (5.7), and Earth Boys (5.10b). All these climbs lead to the belay for Return of the Redeye.

Protection

6 lead bolts and anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John Collins getting through the Face Crux

John Collins chicken Wingin at the roof

Quentin on sighting Return of the Redeye linking in from earth boys. A 70m rope will barley reach the ground from the anchors of ROTR.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Quincy aka Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA

5.11b

Awesome route! Those beginning pockets are stellar! Interesting movement in the beginning and the sequence feels great! Continuing to the 3rd bolt is balancey easier terrain. Then it's gets more vertical and super balancey, and the holds are small. I had a foothold break off, so note that the route is still chossy. I do like this route because even though it's chossy, the rock is tacky and not slimey from overuse. The roof moves are so much fun! There are several holds to choose from. Then go up easier terrain to the anchor. From what I can remember, this route has some similarities to the 5.11a Bad Moon Rising. Dec 8, 2019