Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Sean Brown and Arie Leeflang? 6/11/2011|
|Page Views:||1,242 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Arie on Jul 27, 2011|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
If you have previous ascent info let me know and Ill update it.
The start seemed a bit stiff, consisting of a steep flaring thin-finger crack with gritty rock. A slopey chickenhead is of minor help. Past the steep section the crack slowly widens, easing to 5.9, then fine 5.8 with nearly every potential type of jam being possible as the crack trends from rattly fingers to fist. Its a bit gritty, so tape up. Double chickenheads near the top give your feet a rest. Pass stumpy and belay in cracks or the tree above. Walk off or rap from ol Stumpy.
Or, alternatively hump you way from the road up Altered States Gully, avoiding any potential climbing by sticking to the gully. But that is ill-advised.