Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Sean Brown and Arie Leeflang? 6/11/2011
Page Views: 685 total · 8/month
Shared By: Arie on Jul 27, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Named for the odd decapitated (but still thriving) pine at the head of the crack, Stumpy is the obvious splitter seen up-gully from the top of the Betty’s climbs or the last pitch of Altered States. Standing atop Betty’s Altered Elbow the line is obvious, perhaps about 300 vertical feet and a hefty bushwack away. It requested an ascent and we obliged.

If you have previous ascent info let me know and I’ll update it.

The start seemed a bit stiff, consisting of a steep flaring thin-finger crack with gritty rock. A slopey chickenhead is of minor help. Past the steep section the crack slowly widens, easing to 5.9, then fine 5.8 with nearly every potential type of jam being possible as the crack trends from rattly fingers to fist. It’s a bit gritty, so tape up. Double chickenheads near the top give your feet a rest. Pass stumpy and belay in cracks or the tree above. Walk off or rap from ol’ Stumpy.

Location

The preferred approach is to climb one of the Betty’s routes or both pitches of Altered States. This reaches a ledgy area where you can see the crack up-gully on the left. The route should be obvious- bushwack, scramble, and roll you way to the base of the climb approximately 300 vertical feet higher. Expect about 20 minutes from the top of Betty.

Or, alternatively hump you way from the road up Altered States Gully, avoiding any potential climbing by sticking to the gully. But that is ill-advised.

Protection

Good ol’ standard rack to fist size. A bunch of smaller cams for the start would be key. Perhaps doubles in hands.

Photos

Nice work, gentlemen! S Jul 27, 2011
No kidding! Every time I go up there I look over at that and think... Maybe next time. Glad you got on it. Jul 28, 2011