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Routes in Altered States Gully
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A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Borrowed Time T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magic Circus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gates T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zenith T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Sean Brown and Arie Leeflang? 6/11/2011 |
| Page Views: | 1,242 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Arie on Jul 27, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Named for the odd decapitated (but still thriving) pine at the head of the crack, Stumpy is the obvious splitter seen up-gully from the top of the Bettys climbs or the last pitch of Altered States. Standing atop Bettys Altered Elbow the line is obvious, perhaps about 300 vertical feet and a hefty bushwack away. It requested an ascent and we obliged.
If you have previous ascent info let me know and Ill update it.
The start seemed a bit stiff, consisting of a steep flaring thin-finger crack with gritty rock. A slopey chickenhead is of minor help. Past the steep section the crack slowly widens, easing to 5.9, then fine 5.8 with nearly every potential type of jam being possible as the crack trends from rattly fingers to fist. Its a bit gritty, so tape up. Double chickenheads near the top give your feet a rest. Pass stumpy and belay in cracks or the tree above. Walk off or rap from ol Stumpy.
If you have previous ascent info let me know and Ill update it.
The start seemed a bit stiff, consisting of a steep flaring thin-finger crack with gritty rock. A slopey chickenhead is of minor help. Past the steep section the crack slowly widens, easing to 5.9, then fine 5.8 with nearly every potential type of jam being possible as the crack trends from rattly fingers to fist. Its a bit gritty, so tape up. Double chickenheads near the top give your feet a rest. Pass stumpy and belay in cracks or the tree above. Walk off or rap from ol Stumpy.
Location
The preferred approach is to climb one of the Bettys routes or both pitches of Altered States. This reaches a ledgy area where you can see the crack up-gully on the left. The route should be obvious- bushwack, scramble, and roll you way to the base of the climb approximately 300 vertical feet higher. Expect about 20 minutes from the top of Betty.
Or, alternatively hump you way from the road up Altered States Gully, avoiding any potential climbing by sticking to the gully. But that is ill-advised.
Or, alternatively hump you way from the road up Altered States Gully, avoiding any potential climbing by sticking to the gully. But that is ill-advised.
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