Avg: 2.9 from 111 votes
|Type:||Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||James Garrett and Deborah Witte, May 2003|
|Page Views:||8,280 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on May 31, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch #1: Climb the arete which elbows to the right following the bolts passing the original belay and belay at a newer two-bolt belay about 3m higher where it is easier and more comfortable to belay. 5.8, 35m.
Pitch #2: Continue up the steepening face past an overhang and go right staying on the "arete" more or less. Pass a piton and a couple more bolts continuing to a sloping ledge with a tree and three-bolt belay. 5.8, 32m.
Pitch #3: Slabby and smooth moves manteling chicken heads to more chicken heads to another two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m
Pitch #4: Stay right on the edge. Where the bolts are more run out, be safe going left and up or be bold going straight up to the next bolt...(a nice option for two ways to climb this final and interesting pitch) The rock is a bit gritty here, but glue in 3/8" x 4.5" SS Hilti bolts protect this with beefy hardware! Cool exposure! Continue to the top of the crag with a two bolt belay and great views. 5.9. 30m.
Some obvious linking of pitches is a nice option.
Rappel the route or continue higher and climb the slab to the East. 70m ropes needed or two ropes.