Type: Trad, 470 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Deborah Witte, May 2003
Page Views: 6,399 total · 33/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 31, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Located on the south facing arete with the start just 3m to the left of the route Altered States. Drilled on lead.

Pitch #1: Climb the arete which elbows to the right following the bolts passing the original belay and belay at a newer two-bolt belay about 3m higher where it is easier and more comfortable to belay. 5.8, 35m.

Pitch #2: Continue up the steepening face past an overhang and go right staying on the "arete" more or less. Pass a piton and a couple more bolts continuing to a sloping ledge with a tree and three-bolt belay. 5.8, 32m.

Pitch #3: Slabby and smooth moves manteling chicken heads to more chicken heads to another two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m

Pitch #4: Stay right on the edge. Where the bolts are more run out, be safe going left and up or be bold going straight up to the next bolt...(a nice option for two ways to climb this final and interesting pitch) The rock is a bit gritty here, but glue in 3/8" x 4.5" SS Hilti bolts protect this with beefy hardware! Cool exposure! Continue to the top of the crag with a two bolt belay and great views. 5.9. 30m.

Some obvious linking of pitches is a nice option.

Rappel the route or continue higher and climb the slab to the East. 70m ropes needed or two ropes.

Protection

QD's should be adequate, but a few small cams can be placed here and there.

Photos