Type: Trad, 470 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Deborah Witte, May 2003
Page Views: 5,945 total · 31/month
Shared By: James Garrett on May 31, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Located on the south facing arete with the start just 3m to the left of the route Altered States. Drilled on lead.

Pitch #1: Climb the arete which elbows to the right following the bolts passing the original belay and belay at a newer two-bolt belay about 3m higher where it is easier and more comfortable to belay. 5.8, 35m.

Pitch #2: Continue up the steepening face past an overhang and go right staying on the "arete" more or less. Pass a piton and a couple more bolts continuing to a sloping ledge with a tree and three-bolt belay. 5.8, 32m.

Pitch #3: Slabby and smooth moves manteling chicken heads to more chicken heads to another two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m

Pitch #4: Stay right on the edge. Where the bolts are more run out, be safe going left and up or be bold going straight up to the next bolt...(a nice option for two ways to climb this final and interesting pitch) The rock is a bit gritty here, but glue in 3/8" x 4.5" SS Hilti bolts protect this with beefy hardware! Cool exposure! Continue to the top of the crag with a two bolt belay and great views. 5.9. 30m.

Some obvious linking of pitches is a nice option.

Rappel the route or continue higher and climb the slab to the East. 70m ropes needed or two ropes.

Protection

QD's should be adequate, but a few small cams can be placed here and there.
Craig Martin
  5.9+
Craig Martin  
  5.9+
Checked out this route 2 weeks ago and found it to be a pretty enjoyable climb. A little bit of loose rock on pitch 1 & 2 and kind of a questionable belay anchor on top of pitch 2 or I would have given it more stars. Linking pitch 3 & 4 was straightforward and no rope drag. Thanks for all the new routes, been really enjoying doing a new route every week. Aug 27, 2005
Craig Martin
  5.9+
Craig Martin  
  5.9+
Hi James, the loose rock is quite minimal but still present. I had left my pack right at the base of the climb and after climbing and rapping above it was mostly covered up by the rock we had sent down. In particular between the first two bolts you pass a small roof, a few loose chunks in that area. Maybe I am just not used to newer routes and maybe I nead to tread lighter. The bolts are all bomber as you mentioned. I was refering to the detached? block that the bolts are placed in at the second belay, not the rap anchor. While rapping the route I was pretty spooked by this anchor and unclipped from it while my partner rapped off of it. I am probably just paranoid. I am sure that block isn't going anywhere soon. Thanks again, I have always enjoyed your routes over the years. Sep 5, 2005
Xover
C-Dub Hts, UT
Xover   C-Dub Hts, UT
Did this route today and like it, have enjoyed many of your routes over the years JG; will be honored to meet you and shake your hand hopefully someday soon.
This route offers one of the only, if not the only, moderate, multi pitch, sport routes in LCC that I can think of.
Definitely 9/9+ with everything there; placed a green C3 on pitch 1 and a yellow C3 on pitch 3 (which seems to be the crux pitch).
Views on the top of this thing are raaaahaaad!!!!!!
Only qualm I have is with the station 2 anchors (same as guy above); that "detached" block makes me pee in my panties; seems like you could've moved them 3-5' to the climbers right in the solid face just below the first bolt of pitch 3.
Route is truly cleaning up and the texture of pitch 4 is downright "schtickeee".

On a side note, what is the route that branches to climber's left from this route about 2/3's the way up pitch 2 with red hangers and climbs over the vertical wall at its top?? Name?? Rating?? Aug 26, 2006
tenesmus  
 
James moved that second belay today. I can see how you'd want that. Its super good now. The whole route is super good. Like Xover said, the only .9 sport multipitch around here. That's a quality addition to a fantastic area. Can't believe no more people are up there. Sep 23, 2006
chrisnsmith
Salt Lake City, UT
 
chrisnsmith   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I did this route today with my buddy JP. I led the first pitch and he led the last three. What a great route. Rock is still pretty chossy. The crux for me was the move after the basketball-sized chickenhead on the third pitch. We trundled a sizable rock off the bottom of the third pitch (it was an accident waiting to happen.) Thanks for the great route, James. I definitely plan on coming back to it. Jul 27, 2007
bsmoot
 
bsmoot  
 
This is my favorite route in the Altered States Gully...all right James!! Sep 28, 2007
Stevie Nacho   Utah
A really fun route with some cool features. Definitely worth the hike and a great route to take that "new to climbing" partner. The giant chickenheads up high are the largest I've seen in LCC. Bolted intelligently.

Thanks James,

TDA Apr 24, 2008
Jim D  
Great route. I wouldn't quite call it a sport route, as I expect true sport routes to have a bolt every 6-10 feet, but it is adequately protected. A few TCUs and a #1 camalot can be placed, but you're usually within 6-8 feet of a bolt by the time you can place any of that.

I can't believe that line wasn't plucked earlier than it was.

The next person to go up there should take a handsaw and take out a couple of the small bushes that ropes catch on while rapping down. Oct 24, 2010
A fine outing, James! S May 24, 2011
Peter Lenz
Salt Lake City
  5.9+ R
Peter Lenz   Salt Lake City
  5.9+ R
I love this route! I climbed it twice this week. Each pitch has a distinctive character, the scenery is great, and the rock quality is excellent. We found no significant loose rock on the route, and all the hardware was in good shape. My suggestion: place just one more bolt just below the first anchor. (OK, I'm a Nervous Nellie, but a fall just before the belay would be very nasty.)
Thanks for this terrific route, James. May 8, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Heads up on the rap from top of p2's 3 bolt anchor - our 60m rope with stretch barely makes it. P1 rap into the corner with 60 is fine. Wondering if we did the 2nd pitch right as it was not near the arete as the description here states. Oct 14, 2013
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
I don't have a lot of slab experience (hardest I've led is Crescent Crack, final link) and this felt totally reasonable to me. There are a few runout sections, but not nearly as bad as other slab routes in LCC. I did place 3 cams (total) on the route, but they weren't absolutely necessary (yellow TCU, blue and yellow X4s). I really enjoyed both the positioning and the movement on this route. +1 for Stan's comment re: 60 meter ropes and the rap from the top to the bottom of the 2nd pitch. I had to hang just above the ends of my rope, clip my pas into the anchor then lower off the ends while holding onto the chains. Not terrible, just pay attention. Feb 24, 2014
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.9+
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.9+
Climbed on 6/14/14. Rapping from top of P2 to top of P1, 60 m was not long enough. Very dangerous. 70m required. Jun 14, 2014
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.9
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.9
Not sure how people are getting their 60m's to work as my 70m barely made it to the P1 anchors. 70 meter is required unless you single strand rappel or downclimb to the P1 anchors( both sketchy!). 3rd pitch is the money, I highly recommend linking the last two pitches. Aug 17, 2015
James Garrett
  5.9+
James Garrett  
  5.9+
I don't think anyone is getting a 60m rope to work here for rappelling the route. The description clearly states you need a 70m rope. If a pitch is 35m long you can pretty much bet that a 60m won't work. Aug 22, 2015
Moe Lauchert
Salt Lake City, UT
Moe Lauchert   Salt Lake City, UT
Super beautiful route! I felt like it was pretty heady in some spots due to the run out but good bolts and anchors. a 60m WILL NOT work, especially for the rappel off. Try not to drift too far left or right to sustain the pucker factor.

Approach = bushwhacking Jun 8, 2017
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
"Approach = bushwhacking"

You were lost. Jun 9, 2017
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
  5.9-
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
  5.9-
I along with friends have been surprised on the consensus on this one. I was thinking more like 5.8+. We aren't incredible slab climber or anything like that. I'd actually recommend this route to people who don't have a ton of experience on friction slab. Lots of edges and holds. Some true friction moves but they're short and well protected. The 5.8 Edit (Above and Beyond) on top of this is worth doing if you liked pitch 3's friction moves.
great route in a great location. Go get on it!

Edit: .1-75 cams are nice to have + micronuts If you want to take some of the runouts out of P2. That pin is pretty bad and a fall on that pitch would suck. Start of P3 has a tricky stepover/ mantle onto the slab which can be protected with cams if you go up the gut. I'm a pansy but I think it's one of the harder moves on the route and it's right off the anchor. Oct 23, 2017
Thomas G.
SLC, UT
 
Thomas G.   SLC, UT
 
I agree with Greg's assessment above - the route felt 5.9 - or soft 5.9 at best. While generally safe and well protected, you should be ready for some 5.8 climbing well above your last bolt. Tons of fun. Oct 25, 2017
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9 PG13
Great route that somehow was off my radar until recently. Healthy runouts here and there, but beefy glue-ins in general. Pitches 3-4 link easily. Pitches 1-2 do not, due to rope drag from P1. Sep 22, 2018