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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Taylor
Page Views: 139 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 7, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

In between the obvious Cheap Thrills right-facer and Altered States thin crack/groove, is a bolted line that surmounts the roof. The romp up to the roof wasn't protected, but the roof is well protected, with a 1/4" buttonhead (lol). Above the roof, you might get some of those trad pieces to stick in the grooves, otherwise keep on moving on those rand smears. The crux did not seem as hard as 5.11d, as there were just enough edges to keep you from giving in to total despair. (The mark of a "despair" climb is usually 5.11d, IMHO).

Protection

5 bolts and a pin protect this with a two-bolt anchor midway, as well as at the top. The top one has slings still and will need chains (my next trip). Also you might be able to use a couple of small cams or medium nuts.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
This is a really great TR. Leading it would be a pretty big deal. You can traverse in from the left and do it at .11a. I like how you're smearing for so many consecutive moves. A 70m rope barely reaches straight down from the anchors of Altered States. Sep 23, 2006
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
This is a quaking, amazing lead! Basically a 5.8 solo at the start. Reach the roof 20 feet up, clip the 1st bolt, now climb the roof above at tricky 5.11. The crux lurks above the 2nd bolt...fall at the worst time, and you'll go a skidding, bouncing 30 feet. Looong runouts, two more bolts, and one final pin get you to the anchor. Its 125 from the base to the anchor, with 4 bolts and 1 pin. 125/5= pro about every 25 feet- yikes. Apr 25, 2010
Jim D  
Great toprope for most mortals. A ballsy lead. Clean, but looooong falls possible. Oct 24, 2010
A historical perspective:
Air Express is a direct variation of Walk on Air 5.11a. I'm not sure that Walk on Air can still be done. A massive rockfall eliminated Cheap Thrills 5.7 and at least part of Walk on Air. The photo on this route shows a large section of lighter rock to the left of the Air Express line. This was all exposed by the rockfall possibly 10 years ago. I estimate the block that fell was probably 15 feet by 15 feet by 70 feet. The long runouts were unavoidable in order to bolt on lead. I wouldn't have considered placing bolts any other way especially on a variation of an existing line. The first bolt was actually placed after the first ascent to replace a loose copperhead that was part of the Walk on Air pro. Nov 20, 2015
BrokenChairs BrettC
Sultan, WA
BrokenChairs BrettC   Sultan, WA
Last night a large block came off the wall when we were rapping down Betty's. The rock looked like it went straight down this route. There is a possibility of damaged fixed gear so be prepared if you're going to do this route. It was dark by the time we got back down and were not able to inspect for damage ourselves. May 11, 2016

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