Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: James Garrett and Kris Pietryga, June 2004
Page Views: 1,093 total · 6/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 18, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route branches off left from the middle of the second pitch of Betty's Altered Elbow.

Pitch #1: Same as Betty's Altered Elbow. 5.8, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue up Betty's Altered Elbow's Pitch #2 and rather than climbing directly up and toward the arete on the right, traverse past bolts to the left up very interesting face/friction moves to the bolt belay under a roof. This is good climbing and if cheating, the climbing grade is about equal with its neighbor, but perhaps better rock?? 5.9, 40m.

Pitch #3: Surmount the roof with hard free climbing or grab the silver jug handle. Then veer back right up an easier long slab section to the very top of Betty's Altered Elbow. 5.9, A0 or 5.12

Rappel Betty's Altered Elbow to the base via 4-5 rappels with one 70m rope. 5.9 A0 or 5.12, 4 pitches. As for Betty's Altered Elbow, this was established on lead.

Protection

12 QDs and 3-4 small cams should be adequate

Photos

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