Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||James Garrett and Kris Pietryga, June 2004|
|Page Views:||1,299 total · 6/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Jul 18, 2003|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Pitch #1: Same as Betty's Altered Elbow. 5.8, 30m.
Pitch #2: Continue up Betty's Altered Elbow's Pitch #2 and rather than climbing directly up and toward the arete on the right, traverse past bolts to the left up very interesting face/friction moves to the bolt belay under a roof. This is good climbing and if cheating, the climbing grade is about equal with its neighbor, but perhaps better rock?? 5.9, 40m.
Pitch #3: Surmount the roof with hard free climbing or grab the silver jug handle. Then veer back right up an easier long slab section to the very top of Betty's Altered Elbow. 5.9, A0 or 5.12
Rappel Betty's Altered Elbow to the base via 4-5 rappels with one 70m rope. 5.9 A0 or 5.12, 4 pitches. As for Betty's Altered Elbow, this was established on lead.