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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Begue, Ball, Smigle
Page Views: 1,404 total, 9/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 7, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Up high in the gully on the east side, you will see the obvious right-facing dihedral with nice white granite and sharp edges, this is Cheap Thrills. A little south of this is a ramp that works right, climb this ramp to the one bolt anchor at the base of the line. A Bright Shining Lie then continues up the slightly gritty face. The only scary move is off the piton that looks like it has seen better days. The moves up higher seemed to be the crux, but all in all, a very consistent climb. Now I know I have said this before, but if this climb saw more traffic, it would really clean up.

Protection

12 bolts and a pin + a two-bolt anchor. I cut off all the slings and added brand new chains.

Photos

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I found this to be harder and more sustained than the crux pitch of Fin Arete, but it is much better protected. And yes, the bolting is weird in spots. The crux comes pretty early at around the 4th bolt, but there are plenty of places above that which will make you pucker. May 10, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10
Weird bolting in a couple of sections, clips about 2 or 3' apart then a slight runout. Long runners on the first 3 bolts will help reduce rope drag or be prepared to heave near the end.
The lower half is gritty with a few hollow holds then things improve on the upper slab with a bunch of short cruxes separated by moderate climbing. The hardest moves might be on par with the Fin Arete but nowhere near as sustained. Sep 22, 2009
tenesmus  
 
nice to lead this if you're freaked out about Romance on the Rocks. Its a good, much safer way to get up there and do some nice friction. That said, its much less sustained than Romance. May 15, 2007