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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ruckman, Ruckman
Page Views: 89 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 6, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Del Tongo's first pitch climbs up the ramp past the start of Bright Shining Lie until the end of the ramp. It then climbs some weak flakes up and left that don't protect real well. The second pitch climbs up just left of the anchors with an unprotected 5.9 crux. Protection can be gained as you reach the flake. It then follows weaknesses to the left portion of the obvious "Wizard's Chin". From this point it follows Magic Circus' line up the left-facing crack.

Protection

1 bolt to the 1st two bolt anchor. 2 bolt anchor that it shares with A Bright Shining Lie. Bring a couple of micro-cams for the flake above the 1st anchor, and bring larger gear for the portion that joins in with Magic Circus' left-facing crack. We used my largest hex, and #2 Camalot's and larger.

Photos

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Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
First pitch is easy but very rotten rock with little solid pro. Anchor slings are pretty toasted and need replacement. Oct 10, 2016
This was named by Bret. He had a bicycling hat that said Del Tongo on it. May 11, 2015