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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Ken Gygi, Kent Jameson 1982
Page Views: 947 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A fine specimen of a nice long pitch of slab work (LCC style). Starts very thin, surmounts a small roof, and continues in runout style as it angles left and finally joins with Slip Slidin', just after the last bolt. The crux was from bolt 1 to 2, or just after clipping the last bolt.

Location

This is the 2nd bolted route you come to on the east side of the gully. It is 2 minutes off the trail.

Protection

6 draws for the route, a couple of cams (red Metolius, .75 Camalot) for under the roof (optional), a couple of larger pieces for the finish of Slip Slidin' (there is one piton), and extra slings for the tree in case they are crusty. Two rope rappel.

Photos

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d R
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10d R
A very thin slab - basically no holds, just pure friction and you sometimes have to move before you slide of the transient friction hold you are on. Do this on a cold day. Both my partner and I logged big air on this route when we led it. One more of those LCC routes that will make you a master at slabs if your calf muscles are fit enough. Jan 11, 2016