Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Les Ellison and Dana Hauser 1980
Page Views: 2,547 total · 20/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

There is one distinct crux in the middle of the route, however getting to the first bolt could be considered the mental crux. To quote the Ruckmans guidebook "Hold your breath getting to the first bolt. This took a monumental effort to equip, with multiple falls occurring when the first ascentionists drilled bolt #4."

Climb the corner system that shares the start with Altered States "crack," then traverse right under a small roof. After reaching the start of a chickenhead system charge up to the high first bolt. Follow more bolts and hard friction, to some naturally protected climbing to a bolted belay.

Protection

small to medium cams, quickdraws, double length slings for the gear placed before the first bolt. Save some small to medium stuff for the last 25'.

Photos