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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Les Ellison and Dana Hauser 1980
Page Views: 2,041 total · 19/month
Shared By: Stevie Nacho on Oct 12, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

There is one distinct crux in the middle of the route, however getting to the first bolt could be considered the mental crux. To quote the Ruckmans guidebook "Hold your breath getting to the first bolt. This took a monumental effort to equip, with multiple falls occurring when the first ascentionists drilled bolt #4."

Climb the corner system that shares the start with Altered States "crack," then traverse right under a small roof. After reaching the start of a chickenhead system charge up to the high first bolt. Follow more bolts and hard friction, to some naturally protected climbing to a bolted belay.

Protection

small to medium cams, quickdraws, double length slings for the gear placed before the first bolt. Save some small to medium stuff for the last 25'.

Photos

Stevie Nacho
Utah
 
Stevie Nacho   Utah
 
Jeans are a great piece of gear for this route. If you recreate the falls committed by the first ascentionists like I did, do not wear modern, thin, and cute prana pants. I found this leads to cheek raspberries.

A brilliant and beautiful pitch that every slab addict should do.

sn Oct 12, 2009
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
Gold camalot perfectly protects in a pod under the initial roof. The falls at the crux proper are totally safe and clean. A red #1 camalot can be snuck in the groove below the anchor. A good belay option exists on the ledge 20ft below the roof, right between Romance on the Rocks and A Bright Shining Lie...look for the fixed nut and add an orange tcu. Apr 25, 2010

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