Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers & Lynn Wheeler, 1982
Page Views: 2,453 total · 20/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Dec 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This forgotten route traverses a steep, excellent finger crack to it's end. This pumpy climb used to be quite popular.


Located up high in the back of the Altered States Gully on the south-facing wall. The climb is a horizontal crack starting just right of a small mahogany tree.


Hand & finger sized cams
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
If you hiked all the way up here this is a must - great route. Apr 16, 2011
Smog Lake City, Utah
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
Quality(!). The old stump/tree that was presumably the rap anchor is getting pretty sketchy. There's a blot/pin rap anchor up and over the ridge (downcanyon) from Sticky's belay that will get you back to your sardines with a single 60m rope.

Bring your guns... and a knife to clean up the mahogany tat. May 24, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Hope you're enrolled in college cause you're gonna need your campus skills on this one. Whats that you say? A thin finger crack through a small roof, heel hooking a straggling tree, campusing a horizontal .5 camalot crack, clipping ancient pitons in a parallel crack, deftly maneuvering sideways across delicate flakes, to a dirty handcrack finish? Another off the beaten track gem of the wasatch.

A small stump remains of the previous belay tree. Save some gear in the .4 to .75 range or medium nuts for the belay. Arie's description to find the rap anchor is vague but correct. Hike up through loose 5th class, then downcanyon and left past a bunch of trees, then up and right to the top of a smooth slab where at its base are the bolt and pin anchor. Weird spot for sure. Bring a double set of cams from purple tcu to .75 camalot. May 10, 2013
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
I found this to be burly for a 10d. Do yourself a favor and go do warm-up laps on Tick Fever before jumping on this. At any rate, it's great fun.

Spencer's redescription of Arie's description for locating the bolt anchor is vague but correct. The rap anchor is an old angle piton and a nice bolt with some tat and a locking biner from the mid 13th century. I'd bring some new webbing and maybe a biner to freshen things up a bit. Who knows how long that webbing has been baking in the sun. May 10, 2013
kalockwood   SLC, UT
New two-bolt anchor with chains added on 6/21/14 at the nice ledge at the top of the climb. 60m rope will get you quickly back down into the gully, be careful for rockfall when you pull the rope. Hopefully a new anchor will get more people up to this classic.

I agree with Spencer on the pro: blue/gray tcu's protect the thin opening section well, and then .5 and .75 for the business. Jun 21, 2014
This route is a classic in my eyes, so good! Wish it got more traffic so it'd clean up a little. Definitely old school 10d....

When I do this again I will bring...
Single .1, .2, 1, 2, 3
Doubles in .3, .4
Triples in .5 & .75
nuts and draws

Get on this thing! It is wild. Bomber bolted belay from up top. Oct 15, 2017
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
"Welcome to Little Cottonwood. Your skills are no good here."
Cerebral start, powerful (and well protected) crux, and some kitty litter rock to finish. Some of the blocks post-crux are lose. Choose your placements wisely.
Still needs some cleaning but I will definitely give it another burn next time I'm up there. Jan 31, 2018