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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Steve Carruthers & Lynn Wheeler, 1982
Page Views: 2,219 total, 20/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Dec 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This forgotten route traverses a steep, excellent finger crack to it's end. This pumpy climb used to be quite popular.

Location

Located up high in the back of the Altered States Gully on the south-facing wall. The climb is a horizontal crack starting just right of a small mahogany tree.

Protection

Hand & finger sized cams
KG
SLC, UT
  5.11-
KG   SLC, UT
  5.11-
This route is a classic in my eyes, so good! Wish it got more traffic so it'd clean up a little. Definitely old school 10d....

When I do this again I will bring...
Single .1, .2, 1, 2, 3
Doubles in .3, .4
Triples in .5 & .75
nuts and draws

Get on this thing! It is wild. Bomber bolted belay from up top. Oct 15, 2017
kalockwood
SLC, UT
  5.10d
kalockwood   SLC, UT
  5.10d
New two-bolt anchor with chains added on 6/21/14 at the nice ledge at the top of the climb. 60m rope will get you quickly back down into the gully, be careful for rockfall when you pull the rope. Hopefully a new anchor will get more people up to this classic.

I agree with Spencer on the pro: blue/gray tcu's protect the thin opening section well, and then .5 and .75 for the business. Jun 21, 2014
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I found this to be burly for a 10d. Do yourself a favor and go do warm-up laps on Tick Fever before jumping on this. At any rate, it's great fun.

Spencer's redescription of Arie's description for locating the bolt anchor is vague but correct. The rap anchor is an old angle piton and a nice bolt with some tat and a locking biner from the mid 13th century. I'd bring some new webbing and maybe a biner to freshen things up a bit. Who knows how long that webbing has been baking in the sun. May 10, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Hope you're enrolled in college cause you're gonna need your campus skills on this one. Whats that you say? A thin finger crack through a small roof, heel hooking a straggling tree, campusing a horizontal .5 camalot crack, clipping ancient pitons in a parallel crack, deftly maneuvering sideways across delicate flakes, to a dirty handcrack finish? Another off the beaten track gem of the wasatch.

A small stump remains of the previous belay tree. Save some gear in the .4 to .75 range or medium nuts for the belay. Arie's description to find the rap anchor is vague but correct. Hike up through loose 5th class, then downcanyon and left past a bunch of trees, then up and right to the top of a smooth slab where at its base are the bolt and pin anchor. Weird spot for sure. Bring a double set of cams from purple tcu to .75 camalot. May 10, 2013
Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10d
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
  5.10d
Quality(!). The old stump/tree that was presumably the rap anchor is getting pretty sketchy. There's a blot/pin rap anchor up and over the ridge (downcanyon) from Sticky's belay that will get you back to your sardines with a single 60m rope.

Bring your guns... and a knife to clean up the mahogany tat. May 24, 2011
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10d
If you hiked all the way up here this is a must - great route. Apr 16, 2011