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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bill Robins, Les Ellison 1985
Page Views: 73 total · 0/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 12, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a difficult to discern and difficult to protect route. I guess, it fits right in to Altered States Gully. I have to give kudos to Robins and Ellison for their route-finding skills amidst the sea of rotten rock down low. It climbs the rib of rock in between Discrete Feat's crack and Sleight of Hand's polished corner. It starts unprotected and then gains weaknesses and cracks climbing along the right side of a large downward facing flake. There is a one-bolt anchor at the top of this flake, with acceptable back-ups to assist you. There was a relic Tri-Cam used as part of the probable original anchor system. I did not actually climb this pitch as we got confused as to where the start was, so I cannot vouch for the quality or lack thereof, however, it did look rotten and runout. The second pitch traverses right along an easy undercling and up along another flake, this one an easy right facing flake, until just before it runs out. Another traverse follows right along an increasing slabby ledge system (Discrete Feat's 2nd pitch beginning), and then climbs up bottomed flaring grooves until you can start, thankfully, placing pieces. Follow these grooves and occasional protectable cracks as they move you gradually leftward, one crack at a time, until you get to a tree. Rapp off. Single rope rappel will get you to the top of Clutching at Straws, where another single will get you down. The first rappel it is neccesary to aim rappellers right.
The second pitch was worthwhile with lots of good rock, exposed climbing, and runout.

Location [Suggest Change]

The start is on the blunt arete left of Discrete Feat's crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

I used a #2, and a #1 Camalot for the anchor along with a medium hex. Medium nuts wouldn't hurt. The second pitch required some wide cams, for the flake, and some small cams for the upper face. Some nuts woudl also be useful. Also, there is one pin up high.


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