Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Bill Robins, Les Ellison 1985
Page Views: 372 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 12, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is a difficult to discern and difficult to protect route. I guess, it fits right in to Altered States Gully. I have to give kudos to Robins and Ellison for their route-finding skills amidst the sea of rotten rock down low. It climbs the rib of rock in between Discrete Feat's crack and Sleight of Hand's polished corner. It starts unprotected and then gains weaknesses and cracks climbing along the right side of a large downward facing flake. There is a one-bolt anchor at the top of this flake, with acceptable back-ups to assist you. There was a relic Tri-Cam used as part of the probable original anchor system. I did not actually climb this pitch as we got confused as to where the start was, so I cannot vouch for the quality or lack thereof, however, it did look rotten and runout. The second pitch traverses right along an easy undercling and up along another flake, this one an easy right facing flake, until just before it runs out. Another traverse follows right along an increasing slabby ledge system (Discrete Feat's 2nd pitch beginning), and then climbs up bottomed flaring grooves until you can start, thankfully, placing pieces. Follow these grooves and occasional protectable cracks as they move you gradually leftward, one crack at a time, until you get to a tree. Rapp off. Single rope rappel will get you to the top of Clutching at Straws, where another single will get you down. The first rappel it is neccesary to aim rappellers right.
The second pitch was worthwhile with lots of good rock, exposed climbing, and runout.


The start is on the blunt arete left of Discrete Feat's crack.


I used a #2, and a #1 Camalot for the anchor along with a medium hex. Medium nuts wouldn't hurt. The second pitch required some wide cams, for the flake, and some small cams for the upper face. Some nuts woudl also be useful. Also, there is one pin up high.


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