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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Steve Hong and Karin Budding, 80s
Page Views: 387 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brent Barghahn on Sep 15, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Approach pitch: 100ft, 5.5
Wander up the slabs, ledges, and corner systems aiming for the base of the obvious hanging crack. Pro is sparse, but the climbing is easy. Belay at 2 bolts.

The goods: 50ft, 5.12a
A reachy first lock gets you off the slabs into a strenous traverse. A tricky corner turn gives way to hand jams straight up to the top. 2 bolt anchor. Short, but burly and 30° overhung the whole way. A worthy hard crack climb, though a bit gritty for now.

Descent:
Route is now equiped with ring hangers at the top of both pitches. Can be done in 2 raps with a single 60m, but watch your ends.

Location

Look for slash crack high up on the left side as you enter the gully.

Protection

Single rack to 3, doubles 0.4-1 could be useful. Sharp jams, tape up!

Photos

Cole Bradburn
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Cole Bradburn   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Went up to try this route last night. Super awesome but still a bit dirty. Also, I was on the jug right below where the crack transitions and goes straight up and got bit by a bat.... Sounded like there were a bunch in there. One was pissed and clinging to the highest 1.25 inch cam that I had in. Time to get a rabies shot for me! This route would be super good if it got a good cleaning. I might clean it unless someone else does it before I get up there again.

Cheers! Sep 27, 2016