Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett and Shari Schubot, 1984
Page Views: 477 total · 8/month
Shared By: Stan Pitcher on Oct 14, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Tricky and committing climbing over several bulges leads to insecure shallow cracks. This is a worthy climb that needs some loving.


Between the start of Proscenium/Magic Circus and Del Tonga/Bright Shining Lie, this is the direct line to the bolted anchors below the Wizard's chin.


Standard LCC rack including some RPs. You may want doubles of small cams.


- No Photos -
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Did this today and wasn't too thrilled. Tricky, committing, insecure climbing for sure. Plus some ground fall potential in the first 30 feet or so; take every opportunity and go out of your way to place gear! I found myself placing a piece at my feet while my belayer helped spot it. Getting through the start to better gear and the bolt was the mental crux for sure. Actual crux could have been any number of places but with all the gritty rock it's hard to tell. Not a very aesthetic line either. That said, another one of those climbs worth doing to get up there and test your head game and slab skills. Gear should include small nuts and a single set of cams from micros to #2 with optional #3(this would go in at the one section where the climb eases up and climbs an actual crack, probably not necessary) Nov 14, 2013
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Sorry to hear VWT. Don't see the ground fall potential though. Much protection available for the first bulge and then a good finger sized cam protects the second bulge (although a fall here would be bad onto the ledge). Its a bit run above the bolt which thankfully has been replaced. The cams above there are solid for the tricky exit moves. Be careful going through the easy but rotten terrain leading to the anchor shared with Del Tonga. The rap slings are in dire need of replacement. Oct 10, 2016
FA of this route is Alan Bartlett and Shari Schubot, 1984 Apr 23, 2017