Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Gary Olsen, Bret Ruckman 1980
Page Views: 221 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A great varied outing. Discrete Feat has great rock and uses different techniques as it climbs high on the buttress. It starts off with a tricky layback sequence, into a couple of hand jams and back to laybacks again. A jug here, a jug there will get you over the top of the steep crack, followed by a nice wide section. Skip the tree anchor on your left and continue up to a ramp that exits left and set your anchor. The second pitch traverse left along this ramp, until it ends and then takes 2 steps further. You then slab climb for approximately 160 feet as you try not to thinks about the 3 crappy 1/4" buttonheads that you clip for so called protection. You can get a piece or two before the 1st bolt, and some after the last. The crux either was gettin past the 1st bolt or the mantle at the 3rd bolt. After the 3rd bolt traverse right to a slung tree for an anchor. I missed the 1st tree and found a higher tree. The book calls this a 5.8+, 5.9+ might be a better rating.

Location

The next crack North of Thoroughflare, this one has a wide crack that goes to the right of the roof, as a layback.

Protection

3 bolts on the second pitch standard rack for that pitch. 1st pitch used standard gear down low but wide gear for the squeeze. Bring gear to set up your anchors at both belay stations as there are no suitable anchors. The second belay station had a small tree, I backed it up with #2 Camalot and a black Metolius. The first belay station used 4 or so small cams. A large camming unit was helpful starting the traverse off the first belay station.

Photos

This was Bret Ruckman and my second route to do a FA on. Back in those days it was all ground up. We gave it a 5.8 at the time, but I came back a few years later and found it significantly harder. May 11, 2015