Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Gary Olsen, Bret Ruckman 1980 |
Page Views: | 966 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A great varied outing. Discrete Feat has great rock and uses different techniques as it climbs high on the buttress. It starts off with a tricky layback sequence, into a couple of hand jams and back to laybacks again. A jug here, a jug there will get you over the top of the steep crack, followed by a nice wide section. Skip the tree anchor on your left and continue up to a ramp that exits left and set your anchor. The second pitch traverse left along this ramp, until it ends and then takes 2 steps further. You then slab climb for approximately 160 feet as you try not to thinks about the 3 crappy 1/4" buttonheads that you clip for so called protection. You can get a piece or two before the 1st bolt, and some after the last. The crux either was gettin past the 1st bolt or the mantle at the 3rd bolt. After the 3rd bolt traverse right to a slung tree for an anchor. I missed the 1st tree and found a higher tree. The book calls this a 5.8+, 5.9+ might be a better rating.
Location
The next crack North of Thoroughflare, this one has a wide crack that goes to the right of the roof, as a layback.
Protection
3 bolts on the second pitch standard rack for that pitch. 1st pitch used standard gear down low but wide gear for the squeeze. Bring gear to set up your anchors at both belay stations as there are no suitable anchors. The second belay station had a small tree, I backed it up with #2 Camalot and a black Metolius. The first belay station used 4 or so small cams. A large camming unit was helpful starting the traverse off the first belay station.
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