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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Stuart, Bret Rucman 1989
Page Views: 66 total, 0/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This route changes pace from it's neighbors, in that you are forced to use some muscles as you undercling past the roof. The gear here is pumpy and hard to place, and after turning the corner it only gets worse, as the gear is marginal at best. The section of bottomed out seams ends at the bolt and you now have to contend with gritty slab climbing. All in all a good route, that gives you variety. The crux was the undercling sequence, although one of my partners thought it was the slab move above the bolt.

Location

Just left of Clutching at Straws, Thoroughflare climbs into an obvious roof and exits out the right side fia a thin crack for an undercling. Step back into the gully boulders and look for the one bolt above the roof.

Protection

Getting to the roof protects well with medium gear. Attaining the undercling-ing travers crack requires a couple of larger cams, followed tby the travers that takes small cams. Red Metolius, and Yellow to start it off. Around the corner a prayer is what you will need and your green Alien might work. 1 bolt is the fixed gear and it shares anchors with Clutching at Straws, so bring bail slings.

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