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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: B. Robbins and B. Smoot, 1985
Page Views: 546 total · 7/month
Shared By: Arie on May 5, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Expect to either soar like an American emblem or flail like an abandoned fledgling on this funky roof problem. The Ruckman’s topo shows a roof and “hands” for this route which fired up my imagination… indeed there are several excellent hand jams to be found, but expect some gritty, insecurity, jams to reach them. Eagle Roof juts sharply left from near Discrete Feat’s crux and then zags back to nearly rejoin its 5.9 neighbor. Once through the zag, a beneficial chickenhead appears and the climbing eases to a scamper. Belay at a wedded pair of scrub oak endowed with loads to crusty webbing or continue right to the somewhat awkward belay on the more rightly, more Discrete line.

Location

Branching left from halfway up Discrete Feat’s first pitch the line is fairly obvious with a striking hand crack breaking the lip of a roof.

Protection

Bring your eagle scout badge, a nine-pack of abs, tape, and a standard assorted collection of LCC nuts, cams, and huevos. I don’t remember anything larger than hands, but a slightly larger piece might be nice on the start of Discrete Feat. A sharp knife and replacement webbing for the belay might be the most critical gear.

Photos

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