Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman, 1983
Page Views: 373 total · 3/month
Shared By: bheller on Mar 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a fun slab with a weird up and down start. The crux is after the first bolt, and a fall onto the starting ledge is a real possibility- hence the R rating. Please don't break yourself. Follow the wandering bolts (definitely bolted on lead) to the shallow right facing corner- then up above to the seam/cracks. Finish with an unprotected 50 foot romp up the 5.0 prow.

Location

Shares the start with Magic Circus. Climb up the broken crack 15 feet onto a little pillar/ledge, and then down climb to the right 10 feet. A 70 meter rope gets you down best.

Protection

Mainly bolts (5?) with a few finger sized cam options up higher. Lower off the bolt and pin anchor with webbing. The routes original pin/s have been removed and replaced with bolts.

Photos

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