Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Gary Olsen, Bret Ruckman 1980
Page Views: 905 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A v-slot with very little gear. Slip slidin' climbs a difficult to protect dihedral. Good rock, except for the finish which has some dirt and gravel, and easier climbing.

Location

This dihedral is the first dihedral north of Angel's Ladder. It has one bolt, which is visble from the ground.

Protection

1 bolt and 1 piton are the fixed gear on this long pitch. Gear down low is marginal, with brass and the odd micro-cam going in purely as psychological protection. I believe I got one good piece down low. The Ruckman's give it an "R" rating, I would say this comes as close to "X" as you can get. Protection up high is better, with it getting wide. I used a Gold DMM, and walked it up the crack as I went. The first belay station is nonexistent, so continue on up to the slung tree for your belay. Bring extra bail slings for the anchor. Two rope rappel.

Photos