Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Gary Olsen, Bret Ruckman 1980
Page Views: 847 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

A v-slot with very little gear. Slip slidin' climbs a difficult to protect dihedral. Good rock, except for the finish which has some dirt and gravel, and easier climbing.

Location

This dihedral is the first dihedral north of Angel's Ladder. It has one bolt, which is visble from the ground.

Protection

1 bolt and 1 piton are the fixed gear on this long pitch. Gear down low is marginal, with brass and the odd micro-cam going in purely as psychological protection. I believe I got one good piece down low. The Ruckman's give it an "R" rating, I would say this comes as close to "X" as you can get. Protection up high is better, with it getting wide. I used a Gold DMM, and walked it up the crack as I went. The first belay station is nonexistent, so continue on up to the slung tree for your belay. Bring extra bail slings for the anchor. Two rope rappel.

Photos

tenesmus  
 
The guidebook mentions to bring large gear and a #4, 3 and 2 camalot are very useful. Also, blue yellow and orange TCU's - nut placements were hard for me to find. This isn't your average 5.8 lead as its pretty runnout. Excellent rock though. Stopping at the first anchor would be better because the upper part is funky. However, if you continued on there is a very large tree that you can use to access the huge face on the east side of the prow up there. That tree is the upper anchor for Pearly Gates. Apr 7, 2007
tenesmus  
 
That piton is gone now. I have no idea where it was but I remember clipping it before. This route is now even more runnout. If anyone remembers where it was I'd like to replace it because this would be a very mentally challenging lead for the average 5.9 climber as is. having a #5 camalot would give you a good pro option and take away some of the scare. Groove/slab climbing.

Just below the tree anchor you can traverse left to the anchors of Thoroughflare and rap to the ground with a 70m rope. That tree anchor needs some tat cleaned so bring a knife if you go up there. May 31, 2008
This was my first FA. Drilling the bolt on lead by hand was tiring. I remember talking to Les Ellison soon afterwards and he was like "are you sure you really needed to drill a bolt?" lol. Different times for sure. We originally rated it 5.7, I am not sure what we were thinking. May 11, 2015
Got on this today and didn't think it was pee-my-pants runout but def heads up. Look for the gear....it's there from TCUs before the bolt to a #3 after. Once you get to the easier ground up high you can bail left around the arette to the chains on top of Clutching Staws for a 70 m rap, otherwise you'll need an 80 and some tat to leave at the tree. I broke one of the pieces with my hands. Now that it's checked off, I never have to come back. One of those..... Apr 6, 2017