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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Mike and John Hansen 1995
Page Views: 140 total · 1/month
Shared By: bheller on Mar 23, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Suggest Change]

  1. March of the Gummi Bears...this may be the stupidest name in all of the Wasatch. Perhaps March of the Gumby Bears would have been more appreciated? This variation shares the same easy crack start with Magic Circus, March of the Gummy Bears, and Proscenium. Place a solid #1 camalot in a pod about 25 feet up this starting crack, climb above it a few feet, and then begin the delicate slab traverse right to Gumby's  first bolt(new). At the above roof, get your paws into the undercling (clip new bolt #2), and execute a unique boulder problem to reach the flat edge above and about 5 feet to the left. Static or dynamic...both have been done! Now merge with Gummi's and complete the original and fun finish. After the final bolt at the top of the slab a crack appears where one can place a nice 2 camalot in a squarish pod and finish at the anchors shared by all 7!!! routes on this wall . Slab Bouldering!!!

Location [Suggest Change]

Shares the start with Magic Circus and Proscenium. Climb up the low angle broken crack 25 feet, traverse right 10 feet, now follow the bolts- heading for the seam/crack that divides the top of the slab.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A perfect #1 camalot before you traverse right out of the Magic Circus crack, then bolts(6?), then a #2 camalot  at the top in a square pod in the seam/crack. 70 m rope is best.

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bheller
SL UT
  5.12a
bheller   SL UT
  5.12a
Yet another reason to tour the Altered States slab circuit...the crux is so unique, you surely will not soon forget it! Mar 23, 2010
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
This is one of the coolest names for an LCC route...
Opinions opinions... Mar 24, 2010

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