Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Mike and John Hansen 1995
Page Views: 171 total · 12/month
Shared By: bheller on Apr 22, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a fun and overlooked route that is reasonably safe. The crux is very well protected with modern bolts. Begin in the low angle broken crack where Magic Circus, Proscenium, and March of the Gumby Bears all begin. Protect traditionally until at about 30 feet where new bolts show up when the the difficultly increases. This is the crux- stemming up this delicate corner/ bulge. I think 10d feels fair, but the FA says 10b. Once through this section, latch the chickenhead out right, manyle on top of it, and traverse improbably right about 10 feet to climb the middle of the slab to the top. These traverse moves are very memorable. A couple more 5.10 cruxes give way to easier climbing on slightly grainy orange patina. A crack is found at the top that takes a key #2 camalot in a square pod. Now continue to the bolted anchors that need chain (currently webbing equalized) and share the finish with all 7!!! routes in this area.

Location

In the Altered States Gully proper east side wall. Look for the obvious low angle crack that joins the right facing corner with bolts about 30 feet up.

Protection

Single rack of cams fingers to 2 camalot. Save the 2 camalot for the top.

Photos

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