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March of the Gummi Bears
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Altered States Gully
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A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Borrowed Time T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Cheap Thrills T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Magic Circus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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March of the Gumby Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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March of the Gummi Bears T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Panem et Circenses S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pearly Gates T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Zenith T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
| FA: | Mike and John Hansen 1995 |
| Page Views: | 798 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Past User on Apr 22, 2018 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This is a fun and overlooked route that is reasonably safe. The crux is very well protected with modern bolts. Begin in the low angle broken crack where Magic Circus, Proscenium, and March of the Gumby Bears all begin. Protect traditionally until at about 30 feet where new bolts show up when the the difficultly increases. This is the crux- stemming up this delicate corner/ bulge. I think 10d feels fair, but the FA says 10b. Once through this section, latch the chickenhead out right, manyle on top of it, and traverse improbably right about 10 feet to climb the middle of the slab to the top. These traverse moves are very memorable. A couple more 5.10 cruxes give way to easier climbing on slightly grainy orange patina. A crack is found at the top that takes a key #2 camalot in a square pod. Now continue to the bolted anchors that need chain (currently webbing equalized) and share the finish with all 7!!! routes in this area.
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