Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot and Kevin Lockwood, 21 June 2014
Page Views: 859 total · 15/month
Shared By: kalockwood on Jun 21, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


P1: Starts the same as Latter Day Sinner. Head up the slab clipping a fixed pin before reaching the left to right slanting finger crack. Follow the crack until it meets the slab above. Move up the slab passing two bolts and then move right onto the Rhino's Chin. Two bolt belay on ledge. 5.9+

P2: Scramble up the low-angle slab and move left to the belay for Del Tongo. 5.4.

70m rope will reach the ground.


In between Magic Circus and Latter Day Sinner. Starts in the same corner as Latter Day Sinner and then moves right up the finger crack.


QD's, stoppers, and cams up to 0.5".


MarkJ Johnston
Salt Lake City, UT
MarkJ Johnston   Salt Lake City, UT
This is a fun, well-protected climb with a couple committing moves. Like much of Altered State gully it had some gritty rock and some flexy flakes. My partner pulled a flake just below the bulge this route shares with Latter Day Sinner. Great way to get to the Wizard's Chin pitch. Aug 10, 2015
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The rock by the pin is pretty poor and the moves getting to the finger crack are very committing and I think more difficult than anything on Latter Day Sinner. Maybe it was easier before the flake pulled? Its too bad that instead of a pin a more useful bolt was not placed a little higher up. May want to consider starting on LDS to reach the finger crack. Oct 10, 2016
kalockwood   SLC, UT
Next time I'm up in the gully I'll re-climb the route and see if a bolt should be added. I haven't been on it since the flake pulled. Oct 16, 2016
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
There is no need to change the route, climbs just fine as it is now! Oct 24, 2017