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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Smoot and Kevin Lockwood, 21 June 2014
Page Views: 767 total, 18/month
Shared By: kalockwood on Jun 21, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1: Starts the same as Latter Day Sinner. Head up the slab clipping a fixed pin before reaching the left to right slanting finger crack. Follow the crack until it meets the slab above. Move up the slab passing two bolts and then move right onto the Rhino's Chin. Two bolt belay on ledge. 5.9+

P2: Scramble up the low-angle slab and move left to the belay for Del Tongo. 5.4.

70m rope will reach the ground.

Location

In between Magic Circus and Latter Day Sinner. Starts in the same corner as Latter Day Sinner and then moves right up the finger crack.

Protection

QD's, stoppers, and cams up to 0.5".

Photos

johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.9
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.9
There is no need to change the route, climbs just fine as it is now! Oct 24, 2017
kalockwood
SLC, UT
 
kalockwood   SLC, UT
 
Next time I'm up in the gully I'll re-climb the route and see if a bolt should be added. I haven't been on it since the flake pulled. Oct 16, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The rock by the pin is pretty poor and the moves getting to the finger crack are very committing and I think more difficult than anything on Latter Day Sinner. Maybe it was easier before the flake pulled? Its too bad that instead of a pin a more useful bolt was not placed a little higher up. May want to consider starting on LDS to reach the finger crack. Oct 10, 2016
MarkJ Johnston
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
MarkJ Johnston   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
This is a fun, well-protected climb with a couple committing moves. Like much of Altered State gully it had some gritty rock and some flexy flakes. My partner pulled a flake just below the bulge this route shares with Latter Day Sinner. Great way to get to the Wizard's Chin pitch. Aug 10, 2015