Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlett, Shari Schubot 1984
Page Views: 81 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on May 12, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Sleight of Hand is another adventure style climb typical of Altered States. It starts with a nice, unprotectable, polished, dihedral that gets progressively steeper and more rotten. Pass by two pins, make the crux move, and move right into the flake (downward facing) that marks the anchor. The anchor is the same one bolt anchor as Dropping Out. Again, a lot of runout amidst rotten rock on this first pitch will have you sweating.
We did not do the second pitch as we finished on Dropping Out, but it climbs straight up from the anchor avoiding the rightward traverse of Dropping Out, and clips a bolt, a pin, and another bolt as it climbs a 5.8 slab. 1/4"'ers beware!!!

Location

A water polished corner (the next dihedral left of Discrete Feat), marks the start. Look for the pins up high. There is a third pin left of the flake, it is not on route.

Protection

2 pins on the first pitch, brass nuts are needed as is a prayer. A couple of larger pieces will finish off the first pitch.

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