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Routes in Altered States Gully

A Bright Shining Lie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Above and Beyond S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Air Express T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Altered States T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Angel's Ladder T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Betty's Altered Elbow T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Betty's In 3D T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Clutching at Straws T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Del Tongo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Discrete Feat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Dropping Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Eagle Roof T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Latter Day Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Magic Circus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
March of the Gummi Bears T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Proscenium T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Rhino's Chin, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Romance on the Rocks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slash, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sleight of Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slip Slidin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sticky Fingers T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stumpy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thoroughflare T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Madera, Butterfield, Webster
Page Views: 870 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 7, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

We only climbed the 3rd pitch, but this pitch is easily 2 stars alone. It was a blast, albeit a full body struggle at times. It was still a blast. From the anchors on Del Tongo, go right until you gain the end of that ramp, and climb up the flakes to the tree. Then the fun begins, as you crawl into the belly of the beast. Going up and under the chin, is an amazing part of this climb. Beautiful fist jams keep you up in there, a flake on top of you helps you make progress up, the protection forces you deeper in. Don't grovel up this sequence, but strategically use what is at hand, and the fingertip ledge that saves you will soon be at hand. From here, you can attack it the more secure feeling way---squeeze your way out, or you can turn the 5.9 crux as an insecure lieback off of that slope-y c'head. Either way, your struggle is not quite over, as you now need to work up the 6" crack. Foot jams and fist/cupped hand jams galore. This pitch was a blast, and I will have to go do the entire route now that I know where things are located.

Protection

Pitch one has a one pin anchor to get you started. Pitch 2 and 3 have 2 bolt anchors. Pitch 3 used a lot of "large" gear to tackle the infamous Wizard's Chin. Also beware of rope drag. We used #2 Camalot's on the left facing crack and large hexes. Up under the chin a #4 Camalot, and to help with rope drag, he back-cleaned partway through the "chin".

Photos

thehackattacks
Park City, UT
5.10 R
thehackattacks   Park City, UT
5.10 R
No matter how you choose to climb up to it- get to the Wizard's Chin! A major highlight of the gully, its a very memorable formation. Both the entrance/exit moves are amazing! Apr 20, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10 R
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10 R
There are now 3 bomber bolts on the ramp (shared with original gummi line?), so the crux is no longer X but its certainly harder than 5.9. Above the bolts is run-out (topo in Ruckman shows 5.8 R) but I didn't find it too chossy or loose. The anchor has bolts now too and you can get down with a 60m rope. Oct 14, 2013
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10 R
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10 R
That first pitch looks cool! Bummer about the missing knifeblades. Oct 19, 2011
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
The first pitch of Magic Circus is significantly down gully and to the right of the Wizards Chin. The pitch starts up a smooth left leaning ramp/dihedral with no gear at the crux. 5.10- X. I suspect there used to be knifeblades protecting the seam which have since disappeared. Above, it is chossy and loose. Consider climbing Proscenium or March of the Gummi Bears as an alternate first pitch. All three routes share the same anchor. Mar 23, 2010
Stevie Nacho   Utah
The Wizards Chin is well worth climbing. I grinded a bunch of huge gear through there, and didn't use any. If anybody is interested in climbing this cool formation, take a #4 camalot, three #3 camalots, a #2 camalot, and a #1 camalot. Leave the small stuff and nuts on the ground. A sling or two and some draws for the last two bolts of Bright And Shining Lie are also nice. I found it better to finish on the Bright and Shining Lie rather than doing the Wasatch Crunch Fest through the oak. This pitch does not need or accept anything larger. At least my huge gear is starting to look used, even if I hip drag it up wide routes and never place it.

SN Oct 12, 2009