Type: Trad
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Shared By: Jason Wells on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

On the extreme right side of Supercrack buttress, just left of the giant leaning piller/cave that you go through to get to Anazazi. Look for a shallow right-facing corner with a great 50' near-vertical hand crack formed by a small pillar.

This is a short, fun, and moderate climb. Start out on a ramp deep in the corner, pull over a bulge with increasingly good hands, enjoy a great section of perfect hands, and scramble the last few feet to the top to a two-bolt anchor.

Protection

#.75 Camalot, 2 #2.5 Friends, 3 #2 Camalots

Photos

This is a good warmup, described in both Stewart Green's and Fred Knapp's books as "Unnamed." Green calls it 5.10, Knapp gives it a 10+, but it seemed closer to 5.9. Nov 28, 2001
Matt Chan
Denver
  5.8+
Matt Chan   Denver
  5.8+
A larger cam for the OW section, but mostly thin hands to hands. 8+ crux is at the very top. Nov 2, 2005
Ratings, ratings, ratings. How subjective they are. Though short, I found the difficulty to be similar to other 5.10s that I have climbed at the Creek - makes you pant, but not outrageously hard. I found getting around the bulge the crux, but maybe that's because I am tall, and had a much bigger arse the last time I got on it!

Cheers! Feb 28, 2006
Jo Holloway  
 
This is a nice little beginner route for the Indian Creek crack-climb genre. The crack neophytes such as myself will appreciate this relatively short route with face holds for feet along the concretion-laden sandstone bulge in the lower section. Where other 5.10 routes on this crag left me withering at the base, I got up this one. The rating is more like a 5.8+ or 5.9. Apr 6, 2006