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Utah Guidebooks


Utah : Wasatch Range : Northern Wasatch : Cache Valley : Logan Canyon

Norhtern Utah

Casey Hyer / Sharp End Publishing

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Northern Utah is well known for its high quality limestone, especially in the world renowned Logan Canyon. With recently added crags, including those of Causey, this region has become even more of a destination area. Casey Hyer's guide provides information on hundreds of routes in the Logan Area.

Utah : Central Utah : Joe's Valley : Ice

Beehive Ice

Nathan Smith and Andrew Burr / Pull Publishing / 2014

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The bible for ice in the Beehive State: Utah

Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Ferguson Canyon

Ferguson Canyon Rock Climbing

Ferguson Canyon Rock Climbing

Tony Calderone / Mountain Dreamer Publishing / 2015

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Salt Lake locals know Ferguson Canyon has a niche following in the area's well-deserved reputation for quality crags. The climbing is on granite, but is uniquely different than the glacier-polished slabs of nearby Little Cottonwood. Typically steep cracks and seams are often horizontal, and large crystal holds are common. The canyon is a favorite with dog owners who are not allowed to bring their pups into the Cottonwood Canyons. Trying to escape the heat? Another reason climbers like Ferguson. Nearly all the routes are shaded for most of the day. And the swamp cooling effect of the nearby stream is an ever-present pleasure when temps soar. Climbing here is a pleasurable outing, rather than an adventurous commitment. Some of the best routes in the canyon include: Monogamy (5.7), Crystal Healing (5.8+), Imperial (5.9), Extreme Unction (5.10-), Delirium Tremens (5.11-), and Fuego (5.12a). Vertical finger and hand cracks may show up for a move or two, but they are, strangely, the exception. Chimneys abound. Routes didn't start going up here until the 1980s. Many of the originals were free-soloed or led using micro-nuts in flaring seams. The early pioneers included Les Ellison, Brian Smoot, and Drew Bedford. The 1990s saw slightly better protected routes going up with hand-drilled bolt placement by Hank Armantrout. The turn of the century brought a radically different approach from Greg Martinez. His routes provide the majority of sport climbing in the canyon. Long-time local guide, Tony Calderone, provides excellent, up-to-date information on the most comprehensive compilation of 160 Ferguson Canyon rock climbing routes.

Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Little Cottonwood Canyon

Little Cottonwood Rock Climbing

Little Cottonwood Rock Climbing

Tony Calderone / Mountain Dreamer Publishing / 2016

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This comprehensive guide includes close-up, pitch-by-pitch photos of 1000 routes... all in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Other areas are covered in separate guidebooks, leaving this guide more compact. At 6" x 4" x 1.3" it packs a lot of information into a small and light package. No advertising. No action photos. No elitist attitude. Classic, Demure, Earthy, Durable, Comprehensive, Factual, Accurate, Functional, Practical. Fits in your back pocket. Photos are bigger than many in huge guides. Sport routes are blue. Traditional routes are red. Easy to remember. Durable construction details include a water and tear resistant polyurethane cover and binding and 87# matte paper. Matte paper is easier to write on with pencil, pen, felt tip, etc. Made in USA. $29.98 Find it at: The Gear Room or REI.

Utah : Wasatch Range : Central Wasatch : Big Cottonwood Canyon

Big Cottonwood Rock Climbing

Big Cottonwood Rock Climbing

Tony Calderone / Mountain Dreamer Publishing / 2017

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750 rock climbing routes in Utah's Big Cottonwood Canyon are shown on full-color photos. Layout is consistent throughout to find your route fast. Routes are clearly color-coded, differentiating sport and traditional style routes. Many routes can't be found in any other source. Standard-setting approach maps include USGS-stye colored terrain with contour lines and elevation. Satellite photographs in the exact same scale are on the adjacent page. Customized rack information for each and every route is also included. 6"x 4"x 1", less than 1 pound, and a laminated cover... this is a true field guide. Made in the U.S.A.

https://www.amazon.com/Cottonwood-Rock-Climbing-Tony-Calderone/dp/1945194022/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525838903&sr=8-1&keywords=big+cottonwood+rock+climbing#customerReviews

Utah : Wasatch Range : Northern Wasatch : Ogden

Ogden Area Climbing Guide: From Brigham City to Echo Canyon

David Robb / Sharp End Publishing, 2005

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This is the first comprehensive guidebook ever written for the northern Wasatch Front. The Ogden area’s rich history of climbing combined with a recent explosion of new route activity is certain to put Ogden on the map. This book includes several areas never before documented, dozens of new routes, and all the classics. The variety of climbing has something for every climber from the alpine rock climbs of the Willard Spires, easy access sport routes and toproping at 9th Street, hard limestone test pieces at Causey, long traditional routes on the Macabre Wall, superb bouldering in St. Joe’s boulder field, Maple Canyon-like cobble climbing in Echo Canyon, and the alluring combination of sport and trad routes overlooking Ogden city on the Schoolroom Wall.

Utah : Wasatch Range : Southern Wasatch : American Fork Canyon

Climber's Guide to American Fork/Rock Canyon

Bret and Stuart Ruckman, Chockstone, 1998.

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Great guide to the limestone in American Fork and Rock Canyon.

Areas Covered

Utah : Central Utah : Joe's Valley

Joe’s Valley: A Bouldering Guide to Classic Moderates

Brian Koralewski / Lulu / 2019

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A guidebook to the best moderate boulder problems in Joe's Valley.
• V0 – V7
• 26 Mega-Classics
• 22 Classics
• 34 other Greats
• Minimal Hiking
• Clear Directions
• Clear Descriptions
• Full Color Action Photos of each
problem
• Up-to-date info on new Camping Area,
New Welcome Park, Water, Toilets, &
Broken Problems.

Not Included: Hundreds of lesser quality problems.
Not Included: Hundreds of harder problems: V8 - V14
Not Included: Several longer approach areas.
Not Included: Sandbagging

In 20 years of climbing, I’ve had my share of getting lost because of hard-to-follow info; of hiking a long way only to find out the “classic” isn’t that special, or is cruelly sandbagged. This guide aims to help you avoid being lost, bored or sandbagged; and make Joe’s Valley convenient, efficient & fun. Enjoy!

Utah : Southeast Utah : Indian Creek

Creak Freak: Indian Creek Climbs

Karl Kelley / Sharp End Publishing / 2018

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Karl Kelley has likely spent more time in Indian Creek than any other climber. He can be spotted at crags—obscure and popular—checking route beta, chatting with climbers, picking up trash, offering advice. He has climbed on 1,300 of the over 2000 routes contained within this guide (nearly double the route count of the previous book). To top it off, Karl is donating 100% of his royalties to the Access Fund and has convinced Sharp End, Pagan Mountaineering, and Gearheads to offer $1 for each book sold.

What you can expect:
First ascent info
History and historical photos
Overview maps
Gear beta
Required rope lengths
Route length
Camping beta
Detailed cliff photos

Creek Freak, Indian Creek Climbs

Author Karl Kelley/Publisher Sharp End Publishing/ 2018

A comprehensive guide to Indian Creek, Utah.
Route descriptions
Photo topos
Lots of first ascent beta
Cool action shots
Discussions on local ethics and etiquette
Hit lists
100% OF ROYALTIES FROM THE AUTHOR DONATED TO THE ACCESS FUND

Utah : Southwest Utah : Saint George

St. George Bouldering

Dallen Lasley / Sharp End Publishing 2017

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St. George has rapidly emerged as one of America’s great climbing destinations. St. George Bouldering is the definitive guide to the amazing problems found near this resort city. With abundant moderate problems, as well as mid-grade gems and unsent projects, St. George will not disappoint the cordless climber.

Utah : South Central Utah : Capitol Reef

Capitol Gorgeous cover

Capitol Gorgeous: A Climber's Guide to Capitol Reef National Park and Vicinity

Jared Spaulding / Fixed Pin Publishing

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In the stark and beautiful country of Capitol Reef National Park and Wayne County, splitter cracks, nail-up nightmares and pebble wrestling abound. This guide is your ticket to some of the best (and worst) crags, towers and boulders out there. Come enjoy and climb in the quiet part of Utah where exploration and beauty come standard with every day of climbing.

Utah : Central Utah : Maple Canyon

Pegg Maple Canyon Guide

Maple Canyon Rock Climbs

Dave Pegg, Sybille Hechtel, Josh Holmes / Wolverine Publishing, 2012

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Maple Canyon is the most popular summer sport-climbing destination in the USA. Its steep walls of cobbled conglomerate provide quality pitches for climbers of all abilities, and some of the most enjoyable — and steepest — climbing anywhere. Packed with color photographs and maps, this book provides a comprehensive guide to more than 400 rock climbs in Maple Canyon.

Maple Canyon Guidebook

Maple Canyon

Darren Knezek, Christian Knight

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The newest, most complete guide to Maple Canyon and surrounding areas. Over 600 routes in total with over 550 routes in Maple.

Utah : Southwest Utah : Zion National Park

SuperTopo Zion guidebook cover.

Zion Climbing: Free and Clean

Bryan Bird/SuperTopo

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A great, visually appealing guide to climbing in Zion. Covers all of the popular routes, along with a bunch of stuff you've never heard of.

Currently it's the guidebook for Zion.

The photos are beautiful, the topos are works of art, and the history sections are a lot of fun to read. If it were folio-sized it'd be a coffee table book.

You can get it as a printed book or as a .pdf file

Utah : West Desert : Ibex

Ibex and Selected Climbs of Utah's West Desert

Ibex and Selected Climbs of Utah's West Desert

James Garrett / Cobble Cruncher Graphics (2001)

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Contains fantastic background on the area. Not only does this guide provide route information for Ibex and some other west desert climbs, it includes history, ethical considerations for the area, and a descriptive geology lesson that is unmatched by other guidebooks.

Utah : Southeast Utah

Cover. I do not own this image, uploaded as a resource.

FEATURED: Moab Climbs: High on Moab

Karl Kelley / Sharp End Publishing /2017

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Not only a great resource for the desert climber, but 100% of royalties go to the Access Fund.

Moab Climbs, High On Moab

Author Karl Kelley/Publisher Sharp End Publishing/ 2014

A guide book covering select areas in Moab.
Fisher towers, Castle Valley, River road, Kane Creek, Wall Street, Day Canyon, Long canyon, Arches Park, 313 road, Island In the Sky, White Rim, Town Wall, Looking Glass rock La Sal Mountains and oodles of Towers too.

Classic Desert Climbs

Knapp, Fred. 2002 Classic Desert Climbs Second Edition

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NOW INCLUDING POTASH ROAD AND BIG BEND BOULDERING!
Utah's Canyon Country is one of the most inspirational landscapes in which to climb. Classic Desert Climbs highlights hundreds of the region's best routes with firsthand accuracy. Areas include Wall Street, the Big bend Boulders, Arches, Canyonlands, Colorado National Monument, the Moab area, and more.

Areas Covered

Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide

Bloom, David. 2004 Indian Creek: A Climbing Guide

Pure and unvarying, the symmetrical splitters and varnished right-angled corners of Indian Creek approach a Platonic ideal of crack climbing. David Bloom's decade of research has unearthed nearly a thousand routes conveyed here through color photos, cliff topos, and detailed descriptions. Pioneering and current Indian Creek climbers contribute essays from tales of towers to lack of power to the brashness of maiden voyages in an age before Friends. Color photographs from a host of talented photographers capture the beauty of the region and athleticism of the climbs.

Areas Covered

Utah : Southwest Utah

Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip

Todd Goss / Sharp End Publishing 2015

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This meticulously researched guide will inspire climbers to explore the ever expanding climbing opportunities in and around the region of St. George, Utah. With eight rock types, 60+ areas and seemingly endless opportunities , the St. George region has become the West’s premier sport climbing venue. Routes run the gamut from novice to expert, and scenery from red rock to alpine. This diverse area, boasting well over a thousand climbs, truly has something to satisfy any climber’s taste.

Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip

Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition

Todd Goss, Sharp End Publishing, 2006

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A thorough, easy to use resource with beautiful color photographs. You'll want to keep it on your coffee table with all your other climbing picture books.

Covers St. George and surrounding areas as well as Cedar City and its environs.

Utah : Wasatch Range

A Granite Guide

Nathan Smith, Andrew Burr, Tyler Phillips / PullPublishing

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A Granite Guide - Ferguson to Lone Peak. 2016

Covering the Wasatch Front from Ferguson Canyon to Lone Peak and containing more than 1677 routes, A Granite Guide is the most comprehensive guide to Salt Lake’s granite canyons available. From single pitch classics to multipitch alpine adventures, A Granite Guide is your source for climbing above Salt Lake City, Utah. A Granite Guide also covers Salt Lake's rich climbing history with a 10 page historical section, and 10 essays from prominent Salt Lake climbers. A Granite Guide features a sewn binding for extra durability.

Canyons Covered: Ferguson Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Bells Canyon, Big Willow Canyon, Lone Peak Cirque

Logan Canyon Climbs

Tim Monsell, available locally

Just about the only guide to Logan out there as far as I know.

Areas Covered

Classic Rock Climbs No. 11: Wasatch Range Utah

Bret and Stuart Ruckman, Golden, CO, 1999 (Chockstone)

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Features the best of Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons and American Fork Canyon. Pretty limited in scope but good if you just want something small.

Areas Covered

Rock Climbing Utah's Wasatch Range (Falcon Guide)

Bret and Stuart Ruckman, Golden, CO, 1998 (Chockstone)

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Huge and excellent climbing resources for the Wasatch Range. Does not include American Fork but covers everything from City Creek Canyon down past Little Cottonwood. A must have.

Areas Covered

Utah : West Desert

Utah's West Desert guidebook cover.

Utah's West Desert

James Garrett/Xlibris

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The definitive guide to the desert areas of Utah west of I-15 and north of St. George.

Great color photos and information from a long-time West Desert Rat (same genus as Colorado Plateau Desert Rat).

Utah

Beehive Ice

Beehive Ice

Nathan Smith, Andrew Burr / Pull Publishing 2014

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Beehive Ice: A Guide to Utah's Ice and Mixed Climbs
Nathan Smith, Andrew Burr

464 full color pages containing more than 775 ice and mixed routes, Beehive Ice is the most comprehensive guide to Utah’s frozen winter playground.

From single pitch pillars, gullies and drytool caves to 500-1000’ flows of continuous ice lines all across the state. Utah’s diverse geography and climate contain an amazing array of climbing.

Beehive Ice also covers Utah's rich ice climbing history with a 10 page historical section, 10 essays from prominent Utah climbers.

Areas Covered:

NORTHERN UTAH
SALT LAKE VALLEY
UTAH VALLEY
NEBO RANGE
SAN PITCH MOUNTAINS
DUCHESNE
SPANISH FORK CANYON
CASTLE COUNTRY
CENTRAL UTAH
MOAB AREA
SOUTHERN UTAH

A Bouldering Guide to Utah

A Bouldering Guide to Utah

Jeff Baldwin, Mike Beck, and Mark Russo Sharp End Publishing

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The definitive guide to Utah bouldering includes Little Cottonwood, Joe's Valley, Ibex, Triassic, Moab, Huntington, Price, Wasatch Front, Maple, Cedar City, Big Rocks, St. George, and the High Uintas. Photo overlays, overview maps, and inspirational action pics make this the bouldering guide of choice.

Utah Bouldering

Utah Bouldering

Chris Grijalva, et al., Wolverine Publishing

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A comprehensive guidebook to Utah's best bouldering areas by Chris Grijalva, Noah Bigwood, Dave Pegg. Covers Little Cottonwood Canyon, Joe's Valley, Ibex, Big Bend, Ogden. Awesome action photographs and thousands of problems.

Rock Climbing Utah

Rock Climbing Utah

Stewart M. Green, The Globe Pequot Press, 1998

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Covers the major climbing areas in the state; a good starting reference.