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Elevation: 6,309 ft 1,923 m
GPS: 38.32428, -111.35189
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 146,954 total · 553/month
Shared By: Paul Nelson on Aug 25, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane
Warning Access Issue: Permit Required DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Capitol Reef National Park has a fair selection of good Wingate crack routes. The only detractions are sometimes long approaches, and an NPS moratorium on any new anchor bolting. There is also a moderately good bouldering area about fifteen minutes to the west of the park outside Bicknell.

Permits are now required for climbing and bouldering within the boundaries of Capitol Reef National Park. Free day-use permits can be obtained in person 24 hours a day at a self serve kiosk.

Getting There Suggest change

Get to Capitol Reef either by way of highway 24 (from I-70 to Hanksville, and then west to the park), or by highway 50 (east off of I-15 from Scipio to Salina, and then southeast on highway 24 through Loa, Bicknell, and Torrey to the park).

Most (if not all) of the actual climbing areas are along the scenic drive, a paved road that goes along the backside of the reef south from the park visitor center.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Capitol Reef

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 5
Lithic Scatter
Boulder
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 16
Pussy Bolt
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Left and Right Practice Cracks
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Classic Handcrack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
White Men Can't Jam
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
False Premonitions
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Sharon's crack
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
BFF
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Capitol Flake
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Boulder Overhang
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Feeding the Rat
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Capitol Gorgeous
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Capitol Roof
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
Phi Slamma Jamma
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Terrible Two's
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lithic Scatter Fruita Area > … > Grand Wash Boul… > Everett Ruess Memoria…
 5
V2 5+ Boulder
Pussy Bolt Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
 16
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Left and Right Practice Cracks Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Classic Handcrack Capitol Gorge
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
White Men Can't Jam Slickrock Divide
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
False Premonitions Capitol Gorge
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sharon's crack Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
BFF Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Capitol Flake Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Boulder Overhang Fruita Area > … > Grand Wash Boul… > Hand Crack Boulder
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Feeding the Rat Cooks Mesa > Borderlands
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Capitol Gorgeous Capitol Gorge
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Capitol Roof Fruita Area > Fruita Environs
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Phi Slamma Jamma Slickrock Divide
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Terrible Two's Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Capitol Reef »

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