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Capitol Reef Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Capitol Reef

Capital Gorge Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Capitol Gorge 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Chimney Rock Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Cocks Comb Ridge Area 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Cooks Mesa 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9

Fruita Area 16 / 0 / 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21

Golden Throne 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Overlook Point 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Queens Pyramid 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Slickrock Divide 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Twin Rocks Area 3 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3

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Elevation:	6,309 ft	1,923 m
GPS:	38.32428, -111.35189 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	147,054 total · 542/month
Shared By:	Paul Nelson on Aug 25, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Permit Required Details

As of 2020, climbing in Capitol Reef requires a permit: mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Description

Capitol Reef National Park has a fair selection of good Wingate crack routes. The only detractions are sometimes long approaches, and an NPS moratorium on any new anchor bolting. There is also a moderately good bouldering area about fifteen minutes to the west of the park outside Bicknell.

Permits are now required for climbing and bouldering within the boundaries of Capitol Reef National Park. Free day-use permits can be obtained in person 24 hours a day at a self serve kiosk.

Getting There

Get to Capitol Reef either by way of highway 24 (from I-70 to Hanksville, and then west to the park), or by highway 50 (east off of I-15 from Scipio to Salina, and then southeast on highway 24 through Loa, Bicknell, and Torrey to the park).

Most (if not all) of the actual climbing areas are along the scenic drive, a paved road that goes along the backside of the reef south from the park visitor center.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Capitol Reef

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V2 5+ 5 ● Lithic Scatter Boulder Fruita Area > … > Grand Wash Boul… > Everett Ruess Memoria…
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 16 ● Pussy Bolt Trad Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 22 ● Left and Right Practice Cracks Trad Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 32 ● Classic Handcrack Trad Capitol Gorge
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 4 ● White Men Can't Jam Trad Slickrock Divide
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 12 ● False Premonitions Trad Capitol Gorge
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 9 ● Sharon's crack Trad Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 8 ● BFF Trad Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 6 ● Capitol Flake Trad Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 5 ● Boulder Overhang Trad, TR Fruita Area > … > Grand Wash Boul… > Hand Crack Boulder
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 4 ● Feeding the Rat Trad Cooks Mesa > Borderlands
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 6 ● Capitol Gorgeous Trad Capitol Gorge
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 5 ● Capitol Roof Trad Fruita Area > Fruita Environs
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 4 ● Phi Slamma Jamma Trad Slickrock Divide
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 5 ● Terrible Two's Trad Fruita Area > Grand Wash > Terrible Twos Wall