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Routes in Terrible Twos Wall

Left and Right Practice Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Bolt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharon's crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Soapstone Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terrible Two's T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Thinner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: I don't want to know!!!
Page Views: 473 total · 3/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 8, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is not actually on "terrible two's" wall. Instead, it ascends the left side of a leaning pinnacle south-west of "terrible two's" wall. It's moderate, doesn't require a wall sized rack, and is right off the road. Yes sir, I stole the "pussy bolt" in 1997, when I placed a 3.5" friend 4 inches to the right of the bolt. I believe somebody was learning how to handdrill on this first ascent. Fun route, very moderate. I decided that by removed the pussy bolt, I will rename the route to "The Fixed Route." After all, Tyler Phillips and I fixed this climb. A few hand sized cams will get you up this route. Lower from slings through two bolts.-tda

Protection

Cams ( medium sizes)

Photos

A 4.5 or 5 camalot will protect the upper crack and smaller cams the lower stuff, the bolt is/was unneccesary. Feb 13, 2003
Jared R  
Fun Route with off width Crux. I'd do it again. Used cams up to #3 camalot and hexes up to #10. Great route. Place the #3 before the off width section and place a piece after the off width section to avoid using the larger cams, It's only a 7-8 foot run out if you do this. Aug 9, 2009
These routes are directly across from the terrible twos wall on the opposite side of the wash. I found the tat on the anchor to be in questionable shape on the date I climbed this and Sharon's Crack (3/23/2018) and backed it up with a sling. I would bring extra webbing if I came back here. Mar 26, 2018
greggrylls
Salt Lake City
 
greggrylls   Salt Lake City
 
Thanks for backing that up Conor also your beta was spot on 1 #3 and 1# 4 was definitely not enough for this climb....haha We ran into you at the bottom. I cut off the tat and added some new cord it's in good shape now.

Do not count getting any smaller cams up high the flakes you can see all flex, my cams pulled right out. I'd bring at least 2 3's and 2 4's and maybe a 5 if you wanted frequent protection. Apr 4, 2018

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