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Routes in Terrible Twos Wall

Left and Right Practice Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Bolt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharon's crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soapstone Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terrible Two's T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Thinner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: I don't want to know!!!
Page Views: 312 total, 2/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Feb 8, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route is not actually on "terrible two's" wall. Instead, it ascends the left side of a leaning pinnacle south-west of "terrible two's" wall. It's moderate, doesn't require a wall sized rack, and is right off the road. Yes sir, I stole the "pussy bolt" in 1997, when I placed a 3.5" friend 4 inches to the right of the bolt. I believe somebody was learning how to handdrill on this first ascent. Fun route, very moderate. I decided that by removed the pussy bolt, I will rename the route to "The Fixed Route." After all, Tyler Phillips and I fixed this climb. A few hand sized cams will get you up this route. Lower from slings through two bolts.-tda

Protection

Cams ( medium sizes)

Photos

Jared R  
Fun Route with off width Crux. I'd do it again. Used cams up to #3 camalot and hexes up to #10. Great route. Place the #3 before the off width section and place a piece after the off width section to avoid using the larger cams, It's only a 7-8 foot run out if you do this. Aug 9, 2009
A 4.5 or 5 camalot will protect the upper crack and smaller cams the lower stuff, the bolt is/was unneccesary. Feb 13, 2003