False Premonitions [Edit]
Avg: 3.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, April 1994|
|Page Views:||2,096 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||josh holmes on Oct 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
An amazing hand crack in a right facing dihedral. Climb easy broken rock 10 feet to a ledge at the base of the corner proper. From here jam absolutely amazing hand crack (#2 camolots or #2.5 friends) to a good stance below crux off-width (less than a body lenght, a #4 camalot fits perfect). Thrutch up off-width for a couple of moves to the anchor on the left.
The route is located about 100 yards to the right of Mystery Splitter on the North side of the canyon. Drive as if going to Classic Hand Crack, but park about 100 yards past the picnic tables/pavilion on the left (north) side of the road at an obvious wash. Hike back up the road (west) about 30 feet and follow cairns up a wash, eventually gaining the right side of the gully and topping out at the base of the cliff about 50 feet to the right of the route. Rappel the route with a 60M rope. There is an EXTREMELY SANDY off-hands to tips 5.11 corner 10 feet the right, that I would not recommend to anyone.
5-7 #2 camalots, 1 #3 camalot, 1 #4 camalot