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Routes in Capitol Gorge

Capitol Gorgeous T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Classic Handcrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
False Premonitions T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mystery Splitter T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Seamus Chill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unnamed 5.12 T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Ron Olevsky, 1979
Page Views: 2,724 total · 24/month
Shared By: josh holmes on Oct 10, 2008 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A great introduction to desert crack climbing. Start down and left of the crack near a pine tree. Ascend the obvious splitter crack in the wingate slab. The crux is getting past a thin-hands section to the good hand jams and another little cruxy section just before the anchor (bring something like a green or a yellow alien). Originally called 10a, this will feel easier than anything in Indian Creek.

Location

Drive south on the scenic drive past the visitor center and campground. After 8 miles the road will turn to dirt. Drive another 1/2 mile and you will see the obvious splitter hand crack on the right about 200 feet from the road on the left (south) side. There is a pine tree at the base, just left of the crack.

Protection

some finger pieces for the bottom and top,1 .5 camalot, 2-3 .75 camalots, 3-4 #1 camalots, 2-3 #2 camalots, 2 #3 camalots. rappel off bolts with chains.

Photos

Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
Yes, rappel from a two bolt anchor with chains. I believe that one rope will get you down... a seventy meter definitely will. Jul 19, 2013
Dann R
Hermosa Beach, ca
Dann R   Hermosa Beach, ca
What's the descent? Is there a rap off? Jun 20, 2013
bvb
  5.9+
bvb  
  5.9+
Ron Olevsky definately did the FA, as he recalls it was '79 or '80. The anchor included at least one drilled baby angle.. Super classic little splitter with a sporty start. Feb 3, 2013

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