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Routes in Terrible Twos Wall

Left and Right Practice Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pussy Bolt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sharon's crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soapstone Dihedral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terrible Two's T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Thinner T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brett Ruckman, Marco Cornacchione 5/15/93
Page Views: 1,128 total, 10/month
Shared By: josh holmes on Oct 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Definitely the best line at the crag. A distinct zig-zagging crack to the left of Thinner. Fairly sustained climbing with three distinct hard sections: 1) at the bottom getting to the first good stance, 2) at the traversing "Z" feature, and 3) the final fingery sprint to the anchor.

Location

Drive up Grand Wash about a 1/2 mile or so and park just before the road narrows and dirt walls rise up on either side as you enter the canyon proper. There is a decent place to park on the south side of the road directly below the climbs. The wall is on the left hand side (north) of the canyon about 100 yards from the car. Terrible Two's and Thinner are obvious splitter cracks about 10 feet apart from each other. The practice cracks are to the right of Thinner in a small depression/alcovey thing and are hard to see from the road. To the left of Terrible Two's is the right facing, aptly named Soapstone Dihedral.

Protection

2 .5 camalots, alot of .75 camalots ( I placed 4), about 4 #1 camalots, 1 #2 camalot, 2-3 green aliens, 2-3 yellow aliens, a blue metolious master cam went in great at the top. anchor as of 10/10/08 was 1 bolt, 1 drilled angle...both looked bomber, although the angle has probably been there since the FA.

Photos

bvb
 
bvb  
 
GREAT SPLITTER! Feb 3, 2013
josh holmes  
 
it is all good fun...i am sorry about the heated exchange.
and much respect should be given to the Ruckman's contribution to the climbing community. Brett truly had a gifted eye when it came to scoping out new lines, at least when Steve Hong didn't get to them first. Oct 17, 2008