Elevation: 7,143 ft
GPS: 38.154, -111.271 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 439,377 total · 32,068/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Aug 12, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

Description

South Central Utais a vast and remote section of the state where topography is varied, crowds and good roads are lacking, but climbing here is good.  There is world class bouldering, see Big Water Boulders for example, there is bullet hard granite multi-pitch lines in the The Henry Mountains, there are choss-filled adventures on desert towers in the San Rafael Swell as well as the Grand Staircase, and there are splitters in good sandstone in Capitol Reef, as well as alpine climbing on volcanic tuff in the Jungle, on the Aquarius Plateau.  You name it, you can climb it here.  The area stretches north of the Colorado River/Lake Powell at the Arizona border to Castle Dale and west of the Green River to Highway 89. A treasure of new projects awaits the adventuresome cragger with an eye for hard work in a responsible manner. Be good, be safe, and have fun.

Getting There

 There is a plethora of ways to enter the South Central section of Utah.  Depending on the direction from which you  come, mostly paved roads leading to dirt tracks. The notable paved roads are:

From the north- I 70, HW 89, HW 24, and HW 12

From the east- I 70, HW 24, HW 12, and HW 95

From the south- HW 89, and HW 12

From the west- I 15, HW 89, HW 389, and HW 12 

1,363 Total Climbs

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Location: South Central Utah Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Central Utah

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
1000' of Fun
Trad 5 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
Unknown Handcrack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 142
Private Pizza
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Scenic Byway
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Blowin' in the Wind
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 62
Cheek Full of Redman
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
 49
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 56
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 79
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 34
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 40
Planet Waves
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 40
Oranguterror
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Shere Khan
Trad, Sport, Alpine
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 35
Taco Terror
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 67
Idiot Wind
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
1000' of Fun San Rafael Swell > … > Eastern Reef Ar… > O Crags (Three Finger…
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 5 pitches
Unknown Handcrack San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 84
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Pizza San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 142
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Scenic Byway San Rafael Swell > … > Upper Buckhorn > Scenic Byway Wall
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Blowin' in the Wind San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 53
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cheek Full of Redman San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 62
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
James Tower AKA The Lightblub San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Red Corner
 49
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Anchors From Hell San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Old Bushmills San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 79
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 34
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Planet Waves San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Oranguterror Jungle, on the… > Lower Jungle
 40
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Shere Khan Jungle, on the… > Lower Jungle
 28
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, Alpine
Taco Terror San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 35
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Idiot Wind San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 67
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in South Central Utah »

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