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Elevation: 7,143 ft 2,177 m
GPS: 38.15366, -111.27077
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 869,388 total · 18,178/month
Shared By: Roy Suggett on Aug 12, 2020 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

Description Suggest change

South Central Utais a vast and remote section of the state where topography is varied, crowds and good roads are lacking, but climbing here is good.  There is world class bouldering, see Big Water Boulders for example, there is bullet hard granite multi-pitch lines in the The Henry Mountains, there are choss-filled adventures on desert towers in the San Rafael Swell as well as the Grand Staircase, and there are splitters in good sandstone in Capitol Reef, as well as alpine climbing on volcanic tuff in the Jungle, on the Aquarius Plateau.  You name it, you can climb it here.  The area stretches north of the Colorado River/Lake Powell at the Arizona border to Castle Dale and west of the Green River to Highway 89. A treasure of new projects awaits the adventuresome cragger with an eye for hard work in a responsible manner. Be good, be safe, and have fun.

Getting There Suggest change

 There is a plethora of ways to enter the South Central section of Utah.  Depending on the direction from which you  come, mostly paved roads leading to dirt tracks. The notable paved roads are:

From the north- I 70, HW 89, HW 24, and HW 12

From the east- I 70, HW 24, HW 12, and HW 95

From the south- HW 89, and HW 12

From the west- I 15, HW 89, HW 389, and HW 12 

1,515 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Central Utah Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at South Central Utah

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 194
Private Pizza
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Classic Handcrack
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1
 59
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 96
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 75
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 46
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 46
Oranguterror
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Cannibalistic Tendencies
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 50
Planet Waves
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 29
Shere Khan
Trad, Sport, Alpine
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
Java Man
Sport, Alpine
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 47
Taco Terror
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 81
Idiot Wind
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 27
Tippin The Bottle
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi
Trad, Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Private Pizza San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 194
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Classic Handcrack Capitol Reef > Capitol Gorge
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
James Tower AKA The Lightblub San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Red Corner
 59
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Old Bushmills San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 96
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Anchors From Hell San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 75
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 46
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Oranguterror Jungle, on the… > Lower Jungle
 46
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
Cannibalistic Tendencies Jungle, on the… > Shangri La
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Planet Waves San Rafael Swell > … > Mexican Mtn Rd… > Dylan Wall
 50
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Shere Khan Jungle, on the… > Lower Jungle
 29
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport, Alpine
Java Man Jungle, on the… > Lower Jungle
 42
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
Taco Terror San Rafael Swell > … > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 47
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Idiot Wind San Rafael Swell > … > Mexican Mtn Rd… > Dylan Wall
 81
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Tippin The Bottle San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Bottleneck Peak
 27
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
Rikki-Tikki-Tavi Jungle, on the… > Lower Jungle
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in South Central Utah »

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