Elevation: 5,104 ft
GPS: 39.078, -110.665 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 301,537 total · 1,391/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 19, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The San Rafael Swell is a large anticline that is split in two by I-70.  The areas and routes under this description are all north of I-70.

Much of the documented climbing north of the interstate is concentrated within a few miles of the BLM campground at the junction of Cottonwood Wash Road and the Mexican Mountain Road. This campground has tables and a toilet and charges $3/person/night. There are many free camping opportunities along both of these roads and within a quick drive/bikeride of the toilet. There is no fresh water, and firewood is non-existent. The largest concentration of routes is on the Dylan Wall two miles east of the campground on the north side of the river. The Mexican Mountain Road (to the Dylan Wall) is easily passable by two-wheel drive vehicles unless the road has been washed out.

Eric Bjornstad's Desert Rock (Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell) offers a selection of climbs and an impressive history and geology lesson that should not be missed. While this area does not offer an extensive amount of established routes in comparison to places like Indian Creek, it has a sense of gradeur and seclusion that makes it every bit as enjoyable.

Getting There

30 miles west of the interstate exit for Green River, take exit 131. Make two rights, and follow I-70 back east for a few miles then north for 20 miles to the San Rafael River and the campgrounds. This road was in excellent shape for two-wheel drive traffic (10/02). The road continues north up Buckhorn Wash, or once across the bridge the Mexican Mountain Road (signed) goes east along the river.

206 Total Climbs

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Location: San Rafael Swell - North Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at San Rafael Swell - North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 69
Unknown Handcrack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 122
Private Pizza
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
 29
Haagenschlong
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
Scenic Byway
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 44
Blowin' in the Wind
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 53
Cheek Full of Redman
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
 46
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 50
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 69
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 29
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Short Stack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
Planet Waves
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 31
Rabid Muslim
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 57
Idiot Wind
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
Tippin The Bottle
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unknown Handcrack Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 69
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Pizza Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 122
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Haagenschlong Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Haagenschlong Tower
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Scenic Byway Buckhorn Wash > Upper Buckhorn > Scenic Byway Wall
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Blowin' in the Wind Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 44
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cheek Full of Redman Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 53
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
James Tower AKA The Lightblub Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Red Corner
 46
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Anchors From Hell Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 50
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Old Bushmills Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 69
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 29
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Short Stack Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Planet Waves Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Rabid Muslim Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 31
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Idiot Wind Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 57
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Tippin The Bottle Bottleneck Peak
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in San Rafael Swell - North »

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