Elevation: 5,235 ft
GPS: 39.106, -110.671 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,756 total · 180/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002 with improvements by Jason Stevens
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Description

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes include all climbing from the petroglyph panel to the San Rafael River.

68 Total Climbs

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Location: Lower Buckhorn Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Buckhorn

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
Unknown Handcrack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 95
Private Pizza
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
 23
Haagenschlong
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 37
Blowin' in the Wind
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Cheek Full of Redman
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
 37
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 46
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 62
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
One More Cup of Coffee
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 26
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Short Stack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 29
Planet Waves
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
High Plains Drifter
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 27
Rabid Muslim
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 52
Idiot Wind
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unknown Handcrack Private Pizza Wall
 56
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Pizza Private Pizza Wall
 95
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Haagenschlong Haagenschlong Tower
 23
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Blowin' in the Wind Dylan Wall
 37
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cheek Full of Redman Private Pizza Wall
 39
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
James Tower AKA The Lightblub Misc
 37
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Anchors From Hell Pine Canyon
 46
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Old Bushmills Pine Canyon
 62
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
One More Cup of Coffee Dylan Wall
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid Pine Canyon
 26
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Short Stack Misc
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Planet Waves Dylan Wall
 29
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
High Plains Drifter Spaghetti Western Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Rabid Muslim Pine Canyon
 27
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Idiot Wind Dylan Wall
 52
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Buckhorn »

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