Elevation: 5,235 ft
GPS: 39.10632, -110.67139
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Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Oct 22, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
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Description

There are several concentrations of routes on walls just off the road and up the sidecanyons including the Sex Wall and Pine Canyon Wall. Most of the routes require you to find a break in the Chinle to access the climbs.

Getting There

Lower Buckhorn Wash routes include all climbing from the petroglyph panel to the San Rafael River.

102 Total Climbs

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Location: Lower Buckhorn Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Buckhorn

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
● Bring Your Friends
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 104
● Unknown Handcrack
Trad
Private Pizza Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 185
● Private Pizza
Trad
Private Pizza Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
● KRGA
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
 41
● Haagenschlong
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Haagenschlong Tower
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1
 56
● James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Red Corner
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 65
● Blowin' in the Wind
Trad
Dylan Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
● Cheek Full of Chaw
Trad
Private Pizza Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 90
● Old Bushmills
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 69
● Anchors From Hell
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 39
● Lite Not Solid
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
● Short Stack
Trad
Chocolate Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 48
● Planet Waves
Trad
Dylan Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 46
● Taco Terror
Trad
Pine Canyon
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 78
● Idiot Wind
Trad
Dylan Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Bring Your Friends Pine Canyon
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Unknown Handcrack Private Pizza Wall
 104
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Private Pizza Private Pizza Wall
 185
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● KRGA Pine Canyon
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Haagenschlong Haagenschlong Tower
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
● James Tower AKA The Lightblub Red Corner
 56
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
● Blowin' in the Wind Dylan Wall
 65
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Cheek Full of Chaw Private Pizza Wall
 85
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Old Bushmills Pine Canyon
 90
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Anchors From Hell Pine Canyon
 69
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Lite Not Solid Pine Canyon
 39
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Short Stack Chocolate Wall
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Planet Waves Dylan Wall
 48
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Taco Terror Pine Canyon
 46
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Idiot Wind Dylan Wall
 78
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Lower Buckhorn »

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Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney on Haagenschlong.
Wyatt Edwards about to start the Bombay Chimney…
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