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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jameson, Gage, Friedrichs, 1990
Page Views: 1,544 total, 8/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Nov 27, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route is on the Chocolate wall around the corner (left) past some broken blocks from "Short Stack" (see that route for approach details). Climb the wide flake to the pillars top at about 20'. Continue up the handcrack and into a left facing corner/slab to rappel slings that need replacing.

Protection

Camalots 0.5-3.5; doubles for hand size.

Photos

Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Well worth the (short) walk. The "wide" flake is not too hard, and it protects with # 3 camalots and a #4 up high if you're lucky. From the top of the flake, its thin hands (occasional pod for #2-3 camalots) to the corner/slab, which then takes .4-.75 camalot sizes. I liked this route because of the variety: cups/fists, tight hands/ring locks with pods, and fingery layback to finish. Fantastico! At any rate, it's a real stretch to call this a "handcrack" as the description does. Apr 7, 2014