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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Chopped Sand T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crossroads / Disconnect / Come Again T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Deprivation 29 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Anderson
Page Views: 3,447 total · 19/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Nov 27, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route is on the Chocolate Wall, which is located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash a couple tenths of a mile north of Pine Canyon. The route is easily visible from BWR as the prominent splitter facing the road on the dark face.The approach from the BWR is straighforward and takes about five to ten minutes.A very diverse route starting with 20' of 5.8 offwidth with protection in the crack behind. This gives way to some excellent small hands in the back of a V-pod and finishes with fingers or laybacking. Several good rests make this a very enjoyable climb.

Protection

Doubles or triples of each .75, 1, 2 Camalots

Photos

Nick Spirop
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
Nick Spirop   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11
This route is a straight up 5.11! Takes BD camelot #2s on the roof exit, then #1s in the flared section, then #0.75s up top. Place whatever in the chimney. It's possible that the rope will push your #2 cam deeper into the crack on the roof so be careful. Mar 20, 2017
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
Another clue to describe the location of the Chocolate Wall is that it is directly across from Private Pizza Wall.

Two .75, five 1, three 2 camalots. Great rest before the final .75/stacks section. Apr 13, 2014
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
BURLY! The starting chimney is pretty straightforward if you're facing the right way. Take great care to protect the large roof exit from the chimney to the hands section. If you don't, the crack in that roof will eat your cams. Great finish! Sep 29, 2013
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
fantastic route! Mar 5, 2012
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
FA was Dave Anderson. Nov 9, 2010
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.11a
Josh Ewing   Bluff, UT
  5.11a
Definetely a tough tick at 10d. Add this to the list of 10ds in the Swell that will kick many desert newbies asses. Just in case you're looking for more sandbagged 5.10s, try "once is enough" in Pine Canyon and "All Along the Watch Tower" at the Dylan Wall. Nov 19, 2007
Wayne Harney
  5.11a
Wayne Harney  
  5.11a
Definitely stiff for 10d. Initial chimney is no big deal. A brutal stretch of relentless thin hands in a V slot to a rest, then a green camalot splitter finale. Off fingers or very delicate layback, yikes! Awesome route but hard for big hands. Apr 28, 2004
I need to learn some better offwidth technique if that start is 5.8. Easily felt like the crux of the route to me. Oct 27, 2003

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