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Short Stack

5.11a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 28 votes
FA: Dave Anderson
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Buckhorn Wash > Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall

Description

This route is on the Chocolate Wall, which is located on the west side of Buckhorn Wash a couple tenths of a mile north of Pine Canyon. The route is easily visible from BWR as the prominent splitter facing the road on the dark face.The approach from the BWR is straighforward and takes about five to ten minutes.A very diverse route starting with 20' of 5.8 offwidth with protection in the crack behind. This gives way to some excellent small hands in the back of a V-pod and finishes with fingers or laybacking. Several good rests make this a very enjoyable climb.

Protection

Doubles or triples of each .75, 1, 2 Camalots

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route in it's entirety.
[Hide Photo] The route in it's entirety.
"Short Stack" - As seen from the Private Pizza parking lot
[Hide Photo] "Short Stack" - As seen from the Private Pizza parking lot
Short Stack
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I need to learn some better offwidth technique if that start is 5.8. Easily felt like the crux of the route to me. Oct 27, 2003
Wayne Harney
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Definitely stiff for 10d. Initial chimney is no big deal. A brutal stretch of relentless thin hands in a V slot to a rest, then a green camalot splitter finale. Off fingers or very delicate layback, yikes! Awesome route but hard for big hands. Apr 28, 2004
Josh Ewing
Bluff, UT
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Definetely a tough tick at 10d. Add this to the list of 10ds in the Swell that will kick many desert newbies asses. Just in case you're looking for more sandbagged 5.10s, try "once is enough" in Pine Canyon and "All Along the Watch Tower" at the Dylan Wall. Nov 19, 2007
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
[Hide Comment] FA was Dave Anderson. Nov 9, 2010
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] fantastic route! Mar 5, 2012
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] BURLY! The starting chimney is pretty straightforward if you're facing the right way. Take great care to protect the large roof exit from the chimney to the hands section. If you don't, the crack in that roof will eat your cams. Great finish! Sep 29, 2013
Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] Another clue to describe the location of the Chocolate Wall is that it is directly across from Private Pizza Wall.

Two .75, five 1, three 2 camalots. Great rest before the final .75/stacks section. Apr 13, 2014
Colten Lay
Moab, UT
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] This route needs to be updated to a reasonable rating. 5.11C would be a conservative rating, harder for bigger hands. Sweet route! Mar 18, 2019
Matt Simon
Black Rock City
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] 11- is a generous grade. Certainly not harder than that, particularly for the Swell / Anderson routes. Dec 6, 2021