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Elevation: 5,517 ft 1,682 m
GPS: 39.15975, -110.72891
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Shared By: Jason Stevens on Apr 6, 2019 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

Buckhorn Draw is divided into two distinct areas:

UPPER BUCKHORN WASH is all of the climbing ABOVE or UP-CANYON from the petroglyph panel.

LOWER BUCKHORN WASH is all of the climbing BELOW or DOWN-CANYON from the petroglyph panel.

Buckhorn Wash is a spectacular but relatively unknown climbing area, at least in contrast to Moab and Indian Creek. The climbing is entirely on sandstone. The canyon is deep and long enough that several sandstone classes are represented.

"As you enter the Swell from the northwest, you follow geologic history back in time. From youngest to oldest, the strata include mostly sandstones of the Carmel Formation, Navajo Sandstone, Kayenta Formation, Wingate Sandstone, Chinle Formation, and Moenkopi Formation, which were formed in a variety of depositional environments (rivers, deserts, and shallow seas)." Utah Geological Survey

Most routes follow crack systems and are "traditional" in nature, requiring gear placements. In recent yers sport routes have begun to show in on the faces that provide enough features.

Getting There Suggest change

From the North or West: A few miles north of Castle Dale town on State Route 10 take the Green River Cutoff Road (EM401) or "San Rafael Recreation Access Road" east. Drive 15 miles, then turn right onto EM332 or the Buckhorn Wash Road. About .5 miles down this road you'll cross a cattle guard, cliffs will shortly appear and you'll begin to descend into the canyon.

From the East or Interstate 70: On 170 take the Temple Mountain Exit (Exit 131). On the north side of the interstate follow EM332 east. It parallels the interstate for about two miles then veers north, then north west. The bridge that crosses the San Rafael River at the mouth of Buckhorn Wash is 19 miles from the exit.

151 Total Climbs

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Location: Buckhorn Wash Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 212
● Private Pizza
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1
 64
● James Tower AKA The Lightbulb
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Lower Buckhorn > Red Corner
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 96
● Cheek Full of Chaw
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
● Jamison Engineering
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 106
● Old Bushmills
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 85
● Anchors From Hell
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
● Lite Not Solid
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 31
● Short Stack
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 54
● Taco Terror
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 15
● Cryptogramic Forest
Trad 2 pitches
Lower Buckhorn > Wisdom Tooth
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
● Mean Weener
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > April Fools Wall
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
● Street Legal
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Vertical Smile Wall
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 9
● BBQ Bomber
Trad
Lower Buckhorn > Vertical Smile Wall
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 17
● Deprivation 29
Trad 5 pitches
Upper Buckhorn > Camels Head Rincon
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 18
● Unnamed Sport Climb #1
Sport
Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Private Pizza Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 212
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● James Tower AKA The Lightbulb Lower Buckhorn > Red Corner
 64
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
● Cheek Full of Chaw Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 96
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Jamison Engineering Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Old Bushmills Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 106
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Anchors From Hell Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 85
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Lite Not Solid Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 55
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● Short Stack Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
 31
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Taco Terror Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 54
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Cryptogramic Forest Lower Buckhorn > Wisdom Tooth
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Mean Weener Lower Buckhorn > April Fools Wall
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Street Legal Lower Buckhorn > Vertical Smile Wall
 11
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
● BBQ Bomber Lower Buckhorn > Vertical Smile Wall
 9
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
● Deprivation 29 Upper Buckhorn > Camels Head Rincon
 17
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
● Unnamed Sport Climb #1 Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 18
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Buckhorn Wash »

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The dynamic duo: Lightbulb (left) & 'The Wisdom Tooth' (right) posing in morning light
The dynamic duo: Lightbulb (left) & 'The Wisdom…
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