Elevation: 5,517 ft
GPS: 39.16, -110.729 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 26,650 total · 4,000/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on Apr 6, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Buckhorn Draw is divided into two distinct areas:

UPPER BUCKHORN WASH is all of the climbing ABOVE or UP-CANYON from the petroglyph panel.

LOWER BUCKHORN WASH is all of the climbing BELOW or DOWN-CANYON from the petroglyph panel.

Buckhorn Wash is a spectacular but relatively unknown climbing area, at least in contrast to Moab and Indian Creek. The climbing is entirely on sandstone. The canyon is deep and long enough that several sandstone classes are represented.

"As you enter the Swell from the northwest, you follow geologic history back in time. From youngest to oldest, the strata include mostly sandstones of the Carmel Formation, Navajo Sandstone, Kayenta Formation, Wingate Sandstone, Chinle Formation, and Moenkopi Formation, which were formed in a variety of depositional environments (rivers, deserts, and shallow seas)." Utah Geological Survey

Most routes follow crack systems and are "traditional" in nature, requiring gear placements. In recent yers sport routes have begun to show in on the faces that provide enough features.

Getting There

From the North or West: A few miles north of Castle Dale town on State Route 10 take the Green River Cutoff Road (EM401) or "San Rafael Recreation Access Road" east. Drive 15 miles, then turn right onto EM332 or the Buckhorn Wash Road. About .5 miles down this road you will cross a cattle guard, cliffs will shortly appear and you will begin to descend into the canyon.

From the East or Interstate 70: On 170 take the Temple Mountain Exit (Exit 131). On the north side of the interstate follow EM332 east. It parallels the interstate for about two miles then veers north , then north west. The bridge that crosses the San Rafael River a the month of Buckhorn Wash is 19 miles from the exit. 

106 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Unknown Handcrack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 99
Private Pizza
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
 25
Haagenschlong
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 34
Scenic Byway
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Blowin' in the Wind
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 41
Cheek Full of Redman
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
 40
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 47
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 64
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
One More Cup of Coffee
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 27
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 21
Short Stack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Planet Waves
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 27
Rabid Muslim
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 55
Idiot Wind
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unknown Handcrack Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 58
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Private Pizza Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 99
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Haagenschlong Lower Buckhorn > Haagenschlong Tower
 25
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Scenic Byway Upper Buckhorn > Scenic Byway Wall
 34
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Blowin' in the Wind Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Cheek Full of Redman Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 41
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
James Tower AKA The Lightblub Lower Buckhorn > Misc
 40
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Anchors From Hell Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 47
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Old Bushmills Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 64
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
One More Cup of Coffee Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 27
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Short Stack Lower Buckhorn > Misc
 21
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Planet Waves Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Rabid Muslim Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 27
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Idiot Wind Lower Buckhorn > Dylan Wall
 55
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Buckhorn Wash »

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