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Elevation: 5,517 ft
GPS: 39.15975, -110.72891
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 196,248 total · 3,288/month
Shared By: Jason Stevens on Apr 6, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

Description Suggest change

Buckhorn Draw is divided into two distinct areas:

UPPER BUCKHORN WASH is all of the climbing ABOVE or UP-CANYON from the petroglyph panel.

LOWER BUCKHORN WASH is all of the climbing BELOW or DOWN-CANYON from the petroglyph panel.

Buckhorn Wash is a spectacular but relatively unknown climbing area, at least in contrast to Moab and Indian Creek. The climbing is entirely on sandstone. The canyon is deep and long enough that several sandstone classes are represented.

"As you enter the Swell from the northwest, you follow geologic history back in time. From youngest to oldest, the strata include mostly sandstones of the Carmel Formation, Navajo Sandstone, Kayenta Formation, Wingate Sandstone, Chinle Formation, and Moenkopi Formation, which were formed in a variety of depositional environments (rivers, deserts, and shallow seas)." Utah Geological Survey

Most routes follow crack systems and are "traditional" in nature, requiring gear placements. In recent yers sport routes have begun to show in on the faces that provide enough features.

Getting There Suggest change

From the North or West: A few miles north of Castle Dale town on State Route 10 take the Green River Cutoff Road (EM401) or "San Rafael Recreation Access Road" east. Drive 15 miles, then turn right onto EM332 or the Buckhorn Wash Road. About .5 miles down this road you will cross a cattle guard, cliffs will shortly appear and you will begin to descend into the canyon.

From the East or Interstate 70: On 170 take the Temple Mountain Exit (Exit 131). On the north side of the interstate follow EM332 east. It parallels the interstate for about two miles then veers north , then north west. The bridge that crosses the San Rafael River a the month of Buckhorn Wash is 19 miles from the exit. 

134 Total Climbs

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Location: Buckhorn Wash Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Buckhorn Wash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 191
Private Pizza
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1
 59
James Tower AKA The Lightblub
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 87
Cheek Full of Chaw
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Jamison Engineering
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 93
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 72
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Short Stack
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 47
Taco Terror
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 14
Cryptogramic Forest
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Mean Weener
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Street Legal
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 8
BBQ Bomber
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 16
Deprivation 29
Trad 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Unnamed Sport Climb #1
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Private Pizza Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 191
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
James Tower AKA The Lightblub Lower Buckhorn > Red Corner
 59
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Cheek Full of Chaw Lower Buckhorn > Private Pizza Wall
 87
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jamison Engineering Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Old Bushmills Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 93
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Anchors From Hell Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 72
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 42
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Short Stack Lower Buckhorn > Chocolate Wall
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Taco Terror Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 47
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Cryptogramic Forest Lower Buckhorn > Wisdom Tooth
 14
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Mean Weener Lower Buckhorn > April Fools Wall
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Street Legal Lower Buckhorn > Vertical Smile Wall
 11
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
BBQ Bomber Lower Buckhorn > Vertical Smile Wall
 8
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Deprivation 29 Upper Buckhorn > Camels Head Rincon
 16
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
Unnamed Sport Climb #1 Lower Buckhorn > Pine Canyon
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Buckhorn Wash »

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