Elevation: 5,384 ft
GPS: 39.10913, -110.66231
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,679 total · 171/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Dec 16, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

Description

Mostly one pitch routes on a south facing cliff. This wall gets almost as much sun as the Dylan Wall. Many good routes exist in a short span, starting on the left with "Lite Not Solid" and "Taco Terror". There are a couple routes left of those, a hundred or so yards away, near the prow of the buttress, facing the road. There are also several modern bolted lines up aretes between the cracks. Several interesting camping opportunities lie along the road leading to this crag. One in particular, that lies next to a heinous looking overhanging off-width crack.

Getting There

Two miles north of the bridge is a large "Y" shaped canyon on the right hand side of Buckhorn Wash Road. There is a primitive campsite here, and a four-wheel drive road that winds into the canyon. If just going for the day, it would be best to walk from this point (Don't forget to close the rickety gate behind you). Hike less than a mile following the right side of the "Y" and look immediately left for the dihedrals of "Burgerdier General" and "Once is Enough" near the prow. A little further is right-facing dihedral with a sharply cut right leaning overhang halfway up (Taco Terror).From here it is a 5-minute hike up the talus. All in all, an easy and enjoyable approach.

17 Total Climbs

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Location: Pine Canyon Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Pine Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Bring Your Friends
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Pinching Fat
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 18
Unnamed 5.8 Sport
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
KRGA
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 13
Hidden Surprise
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 90
Old Bushmills
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 69
Anchors From Hell
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 39
Lite Not Solid
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 46
Taco Terror
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 12
Unnamed Sport Climb #2
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 9
Burgerdier General
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Unnamed Sport Climb #1
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Potluck
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bring Your Friends
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Pinching Fat
 27
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Unnamed 5.8 Sport
 18
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
KRGA
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hidden Surprise
 13
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Old Bushmills
 90
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Anchors From Hell
 69
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lite Not Solid
 39
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Taco Terror
 46
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Unnamed Sport Climb #2
 12
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Burgerdier General
 9
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Unnamed Sport Climb #1
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Potluck
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
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